My Italjet Formula 50 LC (Norway)

Lets see whats inside the 19mm BGM carb from Scooter Center.
Main jet=72
Atomizer=262AU
Small jet=48
Choke jet=60
Slide=40
Needle=W16

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN1973.jpg[/ir]

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What do you think of this engine?
Should I buy it and put it in the 50 chassis?
The only fault is that the kick is weldet to the shaft.
(This according to the owner)

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I'm planning to splitt the engine this weekend.
I will try to make the new reed fit, and need to mill allot from the block to make it fit.

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2106.jpg[/ir]

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2107.jpg[/ir]
 
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Than the engine is split, and I have milled one side of the castings. Everything looking good so far :D

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2110.jpg[/ir]
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One side ready.

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2119.jpg[/ir]

Had to open the inlet. It's a BIG different in the reed area if you compare the original and the Polini.

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2125.jpg[/ir]
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And here are some new parts from italjet.co.uk
The igniton is for my Dragster 50.

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2126.jpg[/ir]
 
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I did "modded" my new airbox today.
I just opened the inlet from 17mm to 21mm.
I don't know if this will gain so much power, but it "feels" real good to have done it.

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN1866.jpg[/ir]
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Here is a picture that shows what I have removed from the 1 halfe motor casting. More to come.... :)

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2127.jpg[/ir]
 
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Then the worst work is done.
Now I have to fine grind the rest.

[ir]http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu160/Italjohn/Italjet%20Formula/DSCN2134.jpg[/ir]
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I will not continue to edit your posts for you! :X
 
When I did split the engine, I did notice something strange.
The bigges bearing was not tight on the crank, but very loose?
As far as I know this should be a tight fit. You can easily take it on and off with your hands????

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Someone at scooter shack forum has discovered that it's possible to use a CPI Stage 6 clutch bell, together with a 3.5mm spacer.

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He has also converted a Malossi crank.

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Any one know if the CPI clutch also will fit?
If it does, the choice will be easy for me.

Clutch Stage6 Torque Control MKII (110mm)
The improved version of the very successful Stage6 Torque Control Clutch. In order to cater for the performance of the new R/T cylinder, the linings have been enlarged and the weight of the clutch shoe increased. Unlike the weights of the MKII's predecessor, which had to be screwed on, these ones can simply be slipped on.
The adjustment method of the MKI has been kept. Due to its rotated construction with the clutch springs facing the clutch bell, the patented system makes this the only clutch to allow for full and continuous adjustment without having to take the clutch off. In combination with the Stage6 CNC clutch bell, you won't even have to remove the clutch bell to adjust clutch engagement.
Thanks to the markings on the continuous spring preload screws, every spring can be precisely adjusted. The 8-point weight correction on the back of the clutch shoes offers a multitude of possibilities how to adapt the clutch engagement. The construction makes the most of the available engine torque.
We recommend using white springs for sport cylinders; orange ones for midrace; and the optionally available red ones for high-end cylinders. We can offer Densomet weight sets for very highly tuned engines, which further increase the weight of the clutch shoes.
S6-5014012.jpg


Clutch bell Stage6 (112mm)
The Wingcooler clutch bell Stage6 next to a reinforced casing has a patented cooling concept. The air is passed through the side-mounted fan blades and larger holes on the clutch linings. A longer life of the clutch and the reduction of the known clutch slip in warmed-up engines are the result. The temperature of the bell is lowered significantly, resulting in less energy loss and of course more power at the rear leads. Better suit also warmed engine. In addition, the bell was blasted from the inside to grip the clutch linings increase.
Attention: diameter is 109mm, fits old Minarelli, Honda Dio and Japanese engines
S6-5516600.jpg


Or this


Clutch Bell NARAKU R-Vent (112 mm)
High Performance clutch bell from NARAKU. The exterior fins of the patented R-Vent system lead fresh air into the clutch. This keeps the temperature of the clutch unit down, which prevents wear; results are excellent friction coefficients and sufficient grip in the bell. The friction material is transported off through holes in the side, which prevents additional traction losses. Furthermore the R-Vent bell is equipped with a shrunk-on outer ring for added strength. This prevents deformation in this critical area of the bell. And despite of being reinforced, it still has low weight for excellent acceleration characteristics. An excellent clutch bell with an unbeatable price-performance ratio.
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Clutch Naraku (112 mm)
Now available from Naraku: a sport clutch for the models with 112 mm clutch diameter. With the set of stronger springs that is part of the kit, the clutch engages 1500 - 2000 rpm later than the original clutch thus giving better acceleration. The clutch shoes are reinforced with Kevlar, thus offering better grip as well as longer life.
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Got my vinyl from the USA today, and I went straigth to the vinyl shop. They did cut the stickes for me.
Only one problem, he did cut the Formula50 too short.
Guess I will have to go back tomorrow and have them make some new ones in the right size.

I call the coloure STAGE 6 ORANGE, or this is as close I could come.
DSCN2145.jpg


Not quiet the same as Stage 6, but I could not find any closer to this.(Too much red in it)
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Here is the new crank, with the 5mm longer conrod.
(The camera lens is making them look curved.)
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I have also plugged the old holes, now I need some liquide metal, to fil the plugs eaven with the gasket surface.
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I did buy this brake from German Ebay.
It was not a good buy, than it tured out that all screws was corroded, 1 of them did go off when I try to unscrew them.
Anyway now all are out, and I have paint striped the calliper.

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Here is some pictures of the cleaned engine as well.

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Here is the liquid metal in place.
Before
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After
DSCN2168-1.jpg
 
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