Italjet Dragster 180 project

Martin t

Well-Known Member
Italjet Dragster 180 project [Update 5/8-08]

Hello everyone Martin here from Sweden, 21 years old.

The bike as it was when i bought it, only thing done was it had got a malossi barrel fitted.
italjet1bc5.jpg


i got myself a pm 59 exhaust bout a year ago
sol3qb0.jpg


Also got an egt to make it easier to setup the card and to see if its too lean for ex. running on highway (same throttle for a long time).
egt1sm1.jpg


sol2ck0.jpg


Hmm whats this i have on my table ;)
pmtop3ju1.jpg


pmtop4vb3.jpg


Trying out some different reeds and inlets, i am currently running a dellorto phbl 25 carb.
inletjr0.jpg


That was summer 2007, time for some porting and projekt in the winter!

The bike now
italjet2mg9.jpg


Splitting the engine.
delamc1.jpg


Nice and clean
renhalvasf6.jpg


I have been calculating some on what crank to get and 55mm will make the ports to extreme for the pm pipe, the pipe is said to give maximum power at around 8500-8800 rpm which means that 185 exhuast and 128 transfer ports will be perfect. With a 54mm crank i will need to go 1mm up on the exhaustport and do nothing to the transferports except lowering them to get more fuel/air into the barrel. Exhaust is also lowerd to make the area bigger.

The new mazza crank
mazzapf4.jpg


Tool made in a workshop specially for pulling crank into place, makes it easy to achive som bearing play when engine is put together.
vevverktygsf6.jpg


Crank in engine
vevimotorze2.jpg


Time to measure port times, Fitted 1mm spacer under barrel with 0,5mm basegasket giving exactly 0,8mm squish.
gradskivall7.jpg


Matching barrel to engine halves.
portamotorhalvajh1.jpg


Not the final look forgot to take pictures on that actually but this is almost as the finished result.
portning1uu7.jpg


portning2yf5.jpg


Also made a mount for an accelerationmeter while engine was apart.
accef3.jpg


acc2ty2.jpg



Have put it all together now, started on second kick have just had it idleing some will update a little later with some more pictures and maybe a little testride.

Will also have it repainted in dark greymetallic :)

Finally i get motivated to update this thread

As i said new colour will be and has now been applied and the results turned out to be awesome!

frontoy6.jpg


mladbm1.jpg


A bigger carb and reeds from a kawasaki kx85 has been added and my only comment is scrap your dellortos this carb is so much better, now it wheelies all the time :p just on throttle pull!
koso28kl8.jpg


Also moved the gauges to a more viewable place
dsc00575qo0.jpg
 
Last edited:
Advertisement - register to remove this

Nice dragster man!

I'm curious about the HP's of the PM tuning cilinder+exhaust.

Darkgrey is a nice color for a dragster;) are you gonna paint the legshields too? In the same color ofcourse;)
 
http://forum.scooterforum.net/forum...hier-je-scooter-topic-4-a-142815/index25.html

almost at the bottom of the page you'll see my dragster witch is sold a couple of weeks ago. At first I was curious about the looks, but never felt sorry about it.

I think it should be done with soft colors. Not that fluor yellow that you've got now, but for example dark grey, soft white, black, dark red, dark blue, you name them;)

But ofcourse, it's your machine and your choice:D
 
Very nice parts :winner:

Do you have more pictures of crank puller from the other side where its attached to the crank? I will be fabricating one as well.
 
Very nice parts :winner:

Do you have more pictures of crank puller from the other side where its attached to the crank? I will be fabricating one as well.

A crank puller is a simple tool, just buy a simple M20 bolt. Drill a bore at the end of the bolt (I suggest you use a lathe), and make a thread in it (the same thread as the crank has). Use a suitable size tube as the outer part of the tool. Each end of the tube supports the enginecase the other end support the M20 nut (+washers). So you can pull the crank with the M20 nut! All this thing costs a few euros.
 
Thanks guys.

Browni, I guess the bolt and the nut should have a left-handed thread, right? With that kind of tool the crank will rotate as its being pulled in the bearing, does it matter?
 
Thanks guys.

Browni, I guess the bolt and the nut should have a left-handed thread, right? With that kind of tool the crank will rotate as its being pulled in the bearing, does it matter?


No it's not necessary! The crank doesn't rotate when you pulling in with the tool.

First step you screw the M20 bolt onto the crank by rotating it like a simple nut. After that the bolt is connected to the crank.
When you turn right the nut on the M20 screw you need to dolly the bolt's head with another wrench, so the crank and the bolt is not turning!

Maybe Martin's tool works different way, but my personakl opinion is that one is needlessly complicate. It's also not very good if you rotate it with a lefthanded tool because the crank's thread have an "active role" (radial forces on the thread).
I am NOT saying Martin's tool is bad, it's also great but the other tool protect the crank's thread more!


If you still not understand I will take some photoes.
 
nice drag keep up the good work.
Have you drilled out the brake mount to fit your accelerationmeter if so i would keep a verry close eye on this as they are know for snaping there is a company here in england that make renforcment brackets to stop this there called psn scooters you could just coppy the bracket too if you want i will get you some pictures of one. oh and it keep a eye on the pm59 too as they are verry prone to snaping.
 
No it's not necessary! The crank doesn't rotate when you pulling in with the tool.

First step you screw the M20 bolt onto the crank by rotating it like a simple nut. After that the bolt is connected to the crank.
When you turn right the nut on the M20 screw you need to dolly the bolt's head with another wrench, so the crank and the bolt is not turning!

Maybe Martin's tool works different way, but my personakl opinion is that one is needlessly complicate. It's also not very good if you rotate it with a lefthanded tool because the crank's thread have an "active role" (radial forces on the thread).
I am NOT saying Martin's tool is bad, it's also great but the other tool protect the crank's thread more!


If you still not understand I will take some photoes.

The point with leftthread is that it will not unthread from the crank when you pull the crank into the bearing. You also want to pull on the whole thread on the crank. The tool works perfect and it has also been used on a Malossi mhr crank that is alot tighter in the bearing than a Mazza crank. Nad how are you thinking about your tool protecting the crank threads more? this tool uses the whole length of the thread on both sides, it is not possible to protect the threads more than that.
 
nice drag keep up the good work.
Have you drilled out the brake mount to fit your accelerationmeter if so i would keep a verry close eye on this as they are know for snaping there is a company here in england that make renforcment brackets to stop this there called psn scooters you could just coppy the bracket too if you want i will get you some pictures of one. oh and it keep a eye on the pm59 too as they are verry prone to snaping.

Yes everything is shit if you read italjetdragster.com, pm heads are shit, pm 59 are shit, mazza cranks are shit blablabla there are so many rumours about shit stuff so why does my stuff work? Because i know how to set it up properly.

The most brakemounts that have snapped is because people have had a lock in the rear wheel and driven away with it in the wheel, if your wheel does a full circle and the lock bangs into the caliper it will be alot of stress for the mounting bracket.
 
Back
Top