Some one with HPI Ignition 2005?

Mexicano

Mexicano
I got this HPI for my son's ZIP 90 and have some tech questions on wiring......
These guys didn't include wiring instructions!!!!!!

DSC03035.jpg


What is the Orange lead used for? (Not in a normal CDI)
Where in the hell do I connect the Black/White wire? Is it "+" to coil?
Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
Where do I connect the Yellow/Blue wire?
Does the Yellow wire coming from the light coil goes to + Battery?

Another concern is that my stock coil has two leads "+" & "-", this coil has only one lead, is it "+"?..so the "-" wire coming from the harness goes to ground?

My HPI fully programmable is different from this, so I can't use it as a reference!!!

Thanks!
 
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Mexicano said:
I got this HPI for my son's ZIP 90 and have some tech questions on wiring......
These guys didn't include wiring instructions!!!!!!




What is the Orange lead used for? (Not in a normal CDI)
Where in the hell do I connect the Black/White wire? Is it "+" to coil?
Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
Where do I connect the Yellow/Blue wire?
Does the Yellow wire coming from the light coil goes to + Battery?

Another concern is that my stock coil has two leads "+" & "-", this coil has only one lead, is it "+"?..so the "-" wire coming from the harness goes to ground?

My HPI fully programmable is different from this, so I can't use it as a reference!!!

Thanks!

The yellow wire coming from the light coil is the + and the engine is the ground, so you can measure +-12 Volt between them! But don't connect it directly to the battery, this is AC and it's much more than 12 V!! (I think you already know it).

Connect the orange wire (coming from the CDI) to the ignition coil, the coils mounting point must be connected to the engine/frame as you know!

I have HPI2004 so it's little different, but if I know well, this 2005 type has two ignition curve, so in my opinion these two yellow is for switching them, but I don't know how!

The black-white wire is for the killswitch/STOP, if you short it to the engine/frame your engine will OFF, if it's open, it is in ON position!
 
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yes browni thats the correct way indeed
the wire from the lightcoil should be connected into the voltage rectifier as the normal windings are :)

the yellow wires are for the two curves im guessing you need to ground one for curve A and ground the other for curve B
 
O.K. HPI guys told me how the Yellow and Yellow/Blue wires work, they are "Curve 1" and "Curve 2" selection, now I need to know where in the rectifier box to connect the light coil wire, please look at the diagram:

HPI-ElectricDiagram.jpg


If you look at the STOCK CDI wiring, 2 wires coming from the stator goes to the rectifier box...so I'm confused with this:

CDI-ElectricDiagram.jpg



Please help....I don't want to cook this ignition.....
 
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Mexicano said:
O.K. HPI guys told me how the Yellow and Yellow/Blue wires work, they are "Curve 1" and "Curve 2" selection, now I need to know where in the rectifier box to connect the light coil wire, please look at the diagram:



If you look at the STOCK CDI wiring, 2 wires coming from the stator goes to the rectifier box...so I'm confused with this:




Please help....I don't want to cook this ignition.....

Please tell me your original rectifier's brand/type!

Cause there are some type of rectifier what you can't use for your HPI (cause the different wiring methods).
 
Browni.....I don't know even where in the hell is found the rectifier box!!!! lol.....I'm going to look for it tomorrow and let you know.....Thanks!
 
Is that a lightcoil on the bottem of the stator plate?

I haven't heard of any inner rotor system needing a rectifier. Because all they do is create enough voltage for the spark, so it doesn't need any 12v output.

And the lightcoils generate such low voltage, that a candle shines brighter. So that wouldn't need a rectifier neither.
 
mexicano just measure the ouput voltage with a meter
but make sure you place a load on it or else your reading will be too high

try something like 50ohm's and you'll see its true voltage output
it may only need a simple rectifier diode to create dc
 
Folkert@MinaRally said:
Is that a lightcoil on the bottem of the stator plate?

I haven't heard of any inner rotor system needing a rectifier. Because all they do is create enough voltage for the spark, so it doesn't need any 12v output.

And the lightcoils generate such low voltage, that a candle shines brighter. So that wouldn't need a rectifier neither.


Yes that is a lightcoil HPI lightcoils u can buy them from scooter-center and such like... I also thought you would just connect it straight to a lamp or whatever, but i suppose if your using it for precise and sensitive vunurable electronics such as tellers or whatever, then I would see why you would need one!
 
butch-182 said:
Yes that is a lightcoil HPI lightcoils u can buy them from scooter-center and such like... I also thought you would just connect it straight to a lamp or whatever, but i suppose if your using it for precise and sensitive vunurable electronics such as tellers or whatever, then I would see why you would need one!

its output is AC you cant do this under any circumstance it needs some form of rectification
 
Folkert@MinaRally said:
Is that a lightcoil on the bottem of the stator plate?

I haven't heard of any inner rotor system needing a rectifier. Because all they do is create enough voltage for the spark, so it doesn't need any 12v output.

And the lightcoils generate such low voltage, that a candle shines brighter. So that wouldn't need a rectifier neither.

Ohh!! The rectifier is NOT for the ignition! He doesn't talk about the CDI voltage!

The 12 Volt is for the instruments!

"So that wouldn't need a rectifier neither"

I don't know if you ever learned anything from the electricity! But you say nonsense!

First: the HPI light cool doesn't make exact 12,00 Volt, cause this is a magnetic coil, the current changes everytime, there are maximum and minimum values! Even that HPI coil makes about 18 Volt or more! (my HPI makes 18,x Volt) so if you use a halogen bulb you will kill it (it can bear maximum ~14 Volt).

The other hand, the coil generates Alternating Current so this isn't good for the accumulator or for halogen bulb or for the LED too!
 
Mexicano said:
Browni.....I don't know even where in the hell is found the rectifier box!!!! lol.....I'm going to look for it tomorrow and let you know.....Thanks!

Mexicano

If you don't use very much instruments (cause the HPI coil is approx 10 W) you can make a rectifier as I did!

Use a Graetz bridge as a AC/DC converter,a nd some other components, so you will have a little box!
 
Browni:

I understand clearly what you mean....but I would like to use the original rectifier box already installed in my bike...only issue is which of the leads do I have to use......

looking at the diagram, I have two choices...
 
hmm the coil seems to be centra tapped so my guess would be just use
the wire marked w as the Negative connection from the stator
and the connection for + the wire marked g/r from the lightcoil + side
 
Browni said:
Ohh!! The rectifier is NOT for the ignition! He doesn't talk about the CDI voltage!

The 12 Volt is for the instruments!

"So that wouldn't need a rectifier neither"

I don't know if you ever learned anything from the electricity! But you say nonsense!

First: the HPI light cool doesn't make exact 12,00 Volt, cause this is a magnetic coil, the current changes everytime, there are maximum and minimum values! Even that HPI coil makes about 18 Volt or more! (my HPI makes 18,x Volt) so if you use a halogen bulb you will kill it (it can bear maximum ~14 Volt).

The other hand, the coil generates Alternating Current so this isn't good for the accumulator or for halogen bulb or for the LED too!

Assumptions, assumptions..... I know electrics, but I do make mistakes too, thank you mr. perfect. Only human.

I did look over one thing and Eion you are right. The output is alternating current and of course the lights and dash need direct current.

Can't the lightcoil wire be connected to a rectifier?
 
O.K. calm down boys.....I know I need to use a rectifier, and of course I knew I could use any kind of rectifier capable of handling 800mAh, but I would like to use the original rectifier box....when I foud it some where in my bike I can perform some bench test and see how it works but I was wondering if some of you have the right answer without arguing so much......
 
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