cylinder honing

[ruud.]

yes thats my opinion to, but why use a 600 grit than and wd40? With that kind of combination you are almost polishing the cilindre. So it doesnt get rough this way..

 

[ex-racer#2]

yes thats my opinion to, but why use a 600 grit than and wd40? With that kind of combination you are almost polishing the cilindre. So it doesnt get rough this way..

All you want to do is remove any fine aluminum that has bonded to the cylinder. The WD40 flushes the particles away. The piston will actually deposit fine particles of aluminum over time to the cylinder wall. With a new piston if this is not removed it might stick or sieze more easily.

 

[ruud.]

ok nice theory, but still the quest is, why not use a grit like 120? If there is piston deposit it looks to me that that is caught in the old hone tracks, and you want fresh hone tracks for lubrication.

 

[ex-racer#2]

ok nice theory, but still the quest is, why not use a grit like 120? If there is piston deposit it looks to me that that is caught in the old hone tracks, and you want fresh hone tracks for lubrication.

Go ahead and do it. If you are convinced that is the way to go then do it. Use 60 grit if you want.

This isn't NASA. We aren't trying to put a man on the moon here. When Honda's racing division puts it straight in their service manuals to do it with 600 grit like I reported earlier then I do it. When EVERYONE who owns a 125GP or 250GP bike does it this way then I listen. I figure someone has a good reason for it and unless there is some reason for me to distrust them then why try to do better than the best in the world?

Now this B/S about "fresh" hone tracks is just that. B/S. You do this for a cast bore not Nikisil. Once the Nikisil has been honed the first time you leave it. Unless it peels or has some extreme wear and it needs replating you simply give it a quick once over to make sure no contaminants are on the bore. Aluminum will form an ever so slight "film" at times where it drops some microscopic particles on the bore. The 600 grit does not attempt to cut new "hone tracks". It is Nickisil and it does not wear easily so an attempt to sand it is ridiculous. You are only removing any crud on the bore if there even is any.

If you still don't believe me then go ahead and give it a shot of 120grit and let us know how well your new and improved re-invented wheel goes.

 

[jogrr]

If your trying to remove aluminum from the nikasil can you use hydrocloric acid? I know you can use the acid on cast iron to remove alum safely, been doing that for years ,I am not sure how the acid will react with nikasil ,anyone know?

 

[narx]

If your trying to remove aluminum from the nikasil can you use hydrocloric acid? I know you can use the acid on cast iron to remove alum safely, been doing that for years ,I am not sure how the acid will react with nikasil ,anyone know?

It should be ok to use acid on nikasil, but I've read about using sulphuric acid to remove aluminum from the bore, not hydrocloric. I am not a chemist so maybe both will work.

 

[jogrr]

It should be ok to use acid on nikasil, but I've read about using sulphuric acid to remove aluminum from the bore, not hydrocloric. I am not a chemist so maybe both will work.

Sorry I just checked what I had it's muriatic, and if you search muriatic it also pulls up hydrochloric, I forget , my friends a chemist and explained it all to me before, but he was talkin about acids and bases and blah blah ,I just remember you neutralize it with lots of water and never get in on you or breath the fumes, IT BURNS ;(

 

[ex-racer#2]

If your trying to remove aluminum from the nikasil can you use hydrocloric acid? I know you can use the acid on cast iron to remove alum safely, been doing that for years ,I am not sure how the acid will react with nikasil ,anyone know?

Before everyone makes a left turn and decides this is the "new" best way to do things think for a second. What is the material that we plate with Nikisil in the first place? So we are going to use acid that will eat aluminum to clean the bore of a Nikisil plated Aluminum cylinder?

What happens when the acid weakens the aluminum around the edges of the ports and the plating flakes or peels?

 

[jogrr]

Before everyone makes a left turn and decides this is the "new" best way to do things think for a second. What is the material that we plate with Nikisil in the first place? So we are going to use acid that will eat aluminum to clean the bore of a Nikisil plated Aluminum cylinder?

What happens when the acid weakens the aluminum around the edges of the ports and the plating flakes or peels?

You can simply put grease around any area that you dont want the acid to touch.

 

[narx]

Before everyone makes a left turn and decides this is the "new" best way to do things think for a second. What is the material that we plate with Nikisil in the first place? So we are going to use acid that will eat aluminum to clean the bore of a Nikisil plated Aluminum cylinder?

What happens when the acid weakens the aluminum around the edges of the ports and the plating flakes or peels?

I think it can be done if done carefully, you won't just dip the cylinder into the acid won't you
You have to be very very carefull with that stuff anyway, even fumes can burn skin/glove/clothes.

 

[jogrr]

I think it can be done if done carefully, you won't just dip the cylinder into the acid won't you
You have to be very very carefull with that stuff anyway, even fumes can burn skin/glove/clothes.

Yes, care must be taken, I usually brush it on and keep going till I am satisfied, you can use grease to protect any area's you dont want damaged, I am just not sure how it will affect the coating,that's why I ask if anybody,has/had used acid before

 

[Tobias Claren]

Hello.

I have 120, 180 and 240 Flex-Hone.
Should I only take one grain (if so, which?), Or all three one after the other?
I saw in videos, for example, 180. And no other grain.

And what speed of the hand movement is perfect?
Is this right here?:

It is a Peugeot Kisbee 50 4T (4-stroke) from 2013 with a 50cc engine.
This is a 139QMB-E engine. Like the Chinese scooters, but "E" for Evolution.

 

[Sparky]

@Tobias Claren ,

welkom op dit mooie forum.
Je reageert op een draadje uit 2007, ik denk niet dat je hier nog antwoord op krijgt.
Beter en eigen draadje starten.