Aerox
- Thread starter Cathal
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Aidix
Well-Known Member
For one, you'll need to slaughter the kickstart if the carb is empty. It takes a while to fill, and it only fills if you try to start it. (vac pump)
You can also take the vac tube in your mouth and suck it (pulsating)
That should speed things up.
As for the connections, that one's easy...
You've got oil, gas and vac tubes. Oil is so small, can't miss that one. Gas is on the corner. Vac is the air tube, the connector goes into the air canal directly.
Don't mix up the choke and throttle :#
You can also take the vac tube in your mouth and suck it (pulsating)
That should speed things up.As for the connections, that one's easy...
You've got oil, gas and vac tubes. Oil is so small, can't miss that one. Gas is on the corner. Vac is the air tube, the connector goes into the air canal directly.
Don't mix up the choke and throttle :#
is the air chamber beside the reed vaulves??? What happens if ya mix them up.
Coz i have everything together that i need to start it and i've been kick starting for a while and nothing is happening. Any ideas?
Also will it not start coz it;s not sparking (i dont know if it is or is'ent sparking, Jush might be a prob)
Coz i have everything together that i need to start it and i've been kick starting for a while and nothing is happening. Any ideas?
Also will it not start coz it;s not sparking (i dont know if it is or is'ent sparking, Jush might be a prob)
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Cruz_e_Silva
R^4
I know it's a stupid question...but did you connected all the wires to your wiring loom?
After you kick for a while...take the plug out and see if it's wet.
If not wet the problem is prior to the cilinder...probably a bad fuel tap or jammed and untuned carb. If the plug is wet the problem is in the ignition system. Start and check the stator plate and the wire that goes to the ignition captor (that black plastic piece that goes on the outside of the flying wheel) and check it with a ohmmeter to see if it's broken. Next is the coil....I don't think it could jam.
Maybe it's something connected to the ignition switch or wiring loom...in that case good luck and we will see you in some weeks time...
After you kick for a while...take the plug out and see if it's wet.
If not wet the problem is prior to the cilinder...probably a bad fuel tap or jammed and untuned carb. If the plug is wet the problem is in the ignition system. Start and check the stator plate and the wire that goes to the ignition captor (that black plastic piece that goes on the outside of the flying wheel) and check it with a ohmmeter to see if it's broken. Next is the coil....I don't think it could jam.
Maybe it's something connected to the ignition switch or wiring loom...in that case good luck and we will see you in some weeks time...
Sjoerd
Well-Known Member
For ignition you need 3 things;
1. Fuel / Air mixture.
2. Spark
3. Compression
How to check if you miss 1,2 or 3:
1. Get some fuel and put manually in your cylinder, you can do this by sticking your fuel tube into the carb, open the throttle and suck on the vacuum tube so that some fuel will go into the cylinder. Then you have to be quick and try to start the engine. Will it run, but just for a short while, this is your problem.
2. This is a hard one to check. But get your plug out of the cylinder, press it against your engine (with the lower side of the plug) and then you have to start the engine, when you start you should see some sparks. But watch out; sometimes the sparks you see are not powerfull enough to start the engine. So then you have to change the plug by a new one.
3. Press the kickstarter down with your hand, you should feel some resistance. Its better to get the engine hood of the engine and turn the crankshaft with your hands. You can turn it by getting the varator or something.
1. Fuel / Air mixture.
2. Spark
3. Compression
How to check if you miss 1,2 or 3:
1. Get some fuel and put manually in your cylinder, you can do this by sticking your fuel tube into the carb, open the throttle and suck on the vacuum tube so that some fuel will go into the cylinder. Then you have to be quick and try to start the engine. Will it run, but just for a short while, this is your problem.
2. This is a hard one to check. But get your plug out of the cylinder, press it against your engine (with the lower side of the plug) and then you have to start the engine, when you start you should see some sparks. But watch out; sometimes the sparks you see are not powerfull enough to start the engine. So then you have to change the plug by a new one.
3. Press the kickstarter down with your hand, you should feel some resistance. Its better to get the engine hood of the engine and turn the crankshaft with your hands. You can turn it by getting the varator or something.
this could also be a problem (compression) I still need two bolts (i'm getting them today) to put on the cylinder head. There is water leaking out of the cylinder coz thease bolts are not in Think this is the prob?
Also my starter motor spins but is not attached to the varator gear thing at the back,
My spark is dry therefore not fuel is getting in. Where does the fuel/ vacume pipe go?
Does the vacume pipe go on the outside of the carb neerest the reed vaulves? And the fuel pipe go just beneeth the choke and throttle + whick is bigger the air or the fuel vaulve. (not the pipes the vaulves on the carb)
I reakon the prob is my compression. All the wireing is done.
Thank very much for your help
Also my starter motor spins but is not attached to the varator gear thing at the back,
My spark is dry therefore not fuel is getting in. Where does the fuel/ vacume pipe go?
Does the vacume pipe go on the outside of the carb neerest the reed vaulves? And the fuel pipe go just beneeth the choke and throttle + whick is bigger the air or the fuel vaulve. (not the pipes the vaulves on the carb)
I reakon the prob is my compression. All the wireing is done.
Thank very much for your help
also i get a second hand carb but it's tuned for a 70cc. How can i tune this carb to a 50 (turn the screw hom much and which way?)
Sorry for all the questions but i don't wana fu*k it up.
Does anyone know what size nuts fit onto the cylinder (to secure the cylinder in place) i ruined them when i was taking them off. COz some idiot put them on to tight
Sorry for all the questions but i don't wana fu*k it up.
Does anyone know what size nuts fit onto the cylinder (to secure the cylinder in place) i ruined them when i was taking them off. COz some idiot put them on to tight
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Sjoerd
Well-Known Member
Ok,
Let's recap your questions;
- Compression. When your cilinder is leaking wather, off course you need to tighten the cylinder head with all 4 bolts. Now you've probaly got some wather in your engine too. But thats no problem when you've got it running.
- Your start motor doesnt need to be attached, but when you sell it, you can better make it work.
- If your spark is indeed dry, you are not getting any mixture in your cylinder. Check all the tubes again, and check if the choke works.
- The gold thing on your picture is indeed the fuel tube. On the other side of the carb should be a smaller one for the vacuum. On the RIGHT side of the carb shoudl be an even smaller one for the oil.
- Your main jet should be around 74 with original exhaust and around 82 with a racing exhaust. Then you have got to turn the "Air-screw" 3 times around, sometthing like that.
Let's recap your questions;
- Compression. When your cilinder is leaking wather, off course you need to tighten the cylinder head with all 4 bolts. Now you've probaly got some wather in your engine too. But thats no problem when you've got it running.
- Your start motor doesnt need to be attached, but when you sell it, you can better make it work.
- If your spark is indeed dry, you are not getting any mixture in your cylinder. Check all the tubes again, and check if the choke works.
- The gold thing on your picture is indeed the fuel tube. On the other side of the carb should be a smaller one for the vacuum. On the RIGHT side of the carb shoudl be an even smaller one for the oil.
- Your main jet should be around 74 with original exhaust and around 82 with a racing exhaust. Then you have got to turn the "Air-screw" 3 times around, sometthing like that.
Ok. Much more serious problem. Found out today that my crank shaft might be dangerous, I replaced the crank but....
(try and picture this) You know the way the crank shaft had two bearing either side (that are pressed on) Well the replacement crank i had only had one bearing and the other on was in the other half of the the engine casing (not the varator side, it's the one with the generator and stuff)
So when i was putting the crank back on i just slid the other side of the engine casing beside the crank. It's kinda hard to explain.
I'll put it like this: The bearing (not the varator side) Is not pressed onto the crank. It's lodged in the circular hole that houses some white plastic bit then ontop of that is the generator the fly wheel etc.?
Is it ok that the bearing is not pressed on. It still feels very solid.
PLease help
(try and picture this) You know the way the crank shaft had two bearing either side (that are pressed on) Well the replacement crank i had only had one bearing and the other on was in the other half of the the engine casing (not the varator side, it's the one with the generator and stuff)
So when i was putting the crank back on i just slid the other side of the engine casing beside the crank. It's kinda hard to explain.
I'll put it like this: The bearing (not the varator side) Is not pressed onto the crank. It's lodged in the circular hole that houses some white plastic bit then ontop of that is the generator the fly wheel etc.?
Is it ok that the bearing is not pressed on. It still feels very solid.
PLease help
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Aidix
Well-Known Member
I know
He means he has one bearing pressed on the crank and one bearing was still in the engine case (right side)
You should replace both old bearings by new ones, the standard ones are crap.
Also replace the "white things". These are "oil seals" but I don't know the correct english name (neither does my dictionary :+)
He means he has one bearing pressed on the crank and one bearing was still in the engine case (right side)
You should replace both old bearings by new ones, the standard ones are crap.
Also replace the "white things". These are "oil seals" but I don't know the correct english name (neither does my dictionary :+)
Sjoerd
Well-Known Member
I know he ment the bearings, but i didnt know that he ment the "oil seals"
When you want to sell the scooter, the scooter must work fine, without a properly installed crankshaft, you cant sell the bike because it makes too much strange noises, this will scare off your buyers.
Besides, selling a bike with a not properly mounted crankshaft is like selling a box of rotten egs. I dont think you make new friends that way
When you want to sell the scooter, the scooter must work fine, without a properly installed crankshaft, you cant sell the bike because it makes too much strange noises, this will scare off your buyers.
Besides, selling a bike with a not properly mounted crankshaft is like selling a box of rotten egs. I dont think you make new friends that way
it will be in the buy and sell. Never see person again. The oil seals are fine. The white thing i was talking about is the thing that spinns around. It's just under the generator. It's circular about 3cm in diamaeter It spins the pump for the oil. I don;t think it's a seal but it's fine anyway.
The only prob is that the bearing is not pressed to to crank. But i put it all back together and it's pretty secure. It should be ok right?
The only prob is that the bearing is not pressed to to crank. But i put it all back together and it's pretty secure. It should be ok right?
"standard ones are crap"
Really? I don't think so! Look at the Minarelli engine, if you see the wheel bearings, the gearbox beraings etc.. all of them are SKF but one pair is not, these are the crankshaft bearings, and this is not casual, cause SKF doesn't make good 6204 bearings, (they have pressed baskets), but Japanese (NTN, Koyo) makes very high quality 6204 bearings with riveted baskets (they are much more reliable at high RPM too).
Really? I don't think so! Look at the Minarelli engine, if you see the wheel bearings, the gearbox beraings etc.. all of them are SKF but one pair is not, these are the crankshaft bearings, and this is not casual, cause SKF doesn't make good 6204 bearings, (they have pressed baskets), but Japanese (NTN, Koyo) makes very high quality 6204 bearings with riveted baskets (they are much more reliable at high RPM too).
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