96cc L/C "UFO" Zuma (Resurrection)

[Astrolopitec]

Good question.
I haven't decided yet. Keep in mind that my machine will not be an sprinter but an all weather long distance cruser. So besides the modifications required to mount the radiator, guages, GPS, sound system, and Givi trunk. I won't be doing any mods to the plastic. So it is mostly a question of deciding colors. I like using color shifting paint. Wich color do you like best ?

Juan

 

[Alex_ice]

green and purple!! all day long(top 2) put it out side in the birght sun, and dont forget metal flake

 

[Astrolopitec]

A bit of work...
I did not like having a 30mm carb with a 28mm header. So I bored the header.

I wanted to keep the carb side mounted. So I had to cut the header, the carb output, and the rubber connector.
This shortened the carb assembly by 15mm.
I also reshaped the rubber input elbow with a heat gun.

It fits !!!
I have 10mm clearance between the rubber intake elbow and the tubular frame.
That was very important to me.

Juan

 

[Mexicano]

Very well done Juan!

 

[K.C]

I like the second from the top. It's different from the usual flip paintjobs, and it just looks the nuts.

//L.C

 

[Astrolopitec]

And now some serious work.
I use a carbide bit, a Dremmel and a router attachment to cut the carters.
It would be easier to do with a more powerful real router. But it would also be easier to do quick irreversible damage. The Dremmel only removes a fraction of a millimeter on each pass. So it is harder to pull a woopsy. It takes about one hour to do the small carter and about two hours to do the big carter.

It is very important to solidly secure the carter to the counter (screws). To guide. I use an stencil made with water proof paper (foto paper). I also use lots of grease. Thus the bit cuts better, does not clog with aluminum and the shrapnel won't fly all over the workshop.

Before

After plus stencil.

It is easier for the bit, the Dremmel, and the operator (me). To do the big carter in two shots. (half depth first, full depth after).

Cut to half depth. Just another hour of grinding to go...

Cutting the carters with a Dremmel is a long, tedious job that requires lots of concentration. To any one attempting it. I strongly advice to spread the job over a couple of days. Or you'll get tired, loose patience, and do costly mistakes.

Juan

 

[Mexicano]

Juan: You really have lots of concentration and patience to do this job!!!

I took my carters to a "car engine re-built shop" to do the job!!!..mine needed welding, studs re-location and grinding for the crankshaft

 

[Astrolopitec]

Mexicano. Your motor is simply nuts !
What ever gived you that idea...!?

Finish !!!

Tomorow I'll grind the carter's mouth to accept the skirts of the 54mm cylinder.

Juan

 

[brookespeed]

I just did this but I did it by hand with a couple different dremel tips. I had a few mistakes. Nothing that a little JB weld couldn't fix. Yours looks very nice though. I used a die grinder and a wicked nasty bit for most of it and dremel for the 'fine' edges. The mouth was hard but I think that was just because I used a stock jog90 cylinder for testing the fit and then used an aftermarket cylinder that was just a little bit bigger. I don't think I'd do it again unless I just sent it out to be milled. From now on I'm just going to do short case motors with the atv/jog90 cases.

Do you get your parts from Sims/MaxRPM or from Dave at stroke it imports? or?

But what's up with "carters"? I thought this was the english board? Carter is Dutch for 'casing'! I understand and find myself almost using the dutch word sometimes but it's just interesting how it works its way into common english usage here.

 

[Browni]

And now some serious work.
I use a carbide bit, a Dremmel and a router attachment to cut the carters.
It would be easier to do with a more powerful real router. But it would also be easier to do quick irreversible damage. The Dremmel only removes a fraction of a millimeter on each pass. So it is harder to pull a woopsy. It takes about one hour to do the small carter and about two hours to do the big carter.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/thegreatescape/misc/router.jpg

It is very important to solidly secure the carter to the counter (screws). To guide. I use an stencil made with water proof paper (foto paper). I also use lots of grease. Thus the bit cuts better, does not clog with aluminum and the shrapnel won't fly all over the workshop.

Before
http://www3.sympatico.ca/thegreatescape/misc/before.jpg

After plus stencil.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/thegreatescape/misc/after.jpg

It is easier for the bit, the Dremmel, and the operator (me). To do the big carter in two shots. (half depth first, full depth after).

Cut to half depth. Just another hour of grinding to go...
http://www3.sympatico.ca/thegreatescape/misc/bigcarter.jpg

Cutting the carters with a Dremmel is a long, tedious job that requires lots of concentration. To any one attempting it. I strongly advice to spread the job over a couple of days. Or you'll get tired, loose patience, and do costly mistakes.

Juan

Uh this is nice job with that tool! But what a thin wall! How much was the diameter before the cutting, and how much is now?

 

[Astrolopitec]

Carter is actually a very common family name in the US.

I get my parts at Dave's
http://www.strokeitimports.com/

The original crank is 72mm in diameter and the carter cavity 73mm. (very tight tolerance from factory).
The new crank is 76mm and the cavity 78mm.
When finished, the wall was 4mm thick, and the seal lip 1.5-2mm.
It looks the same as my first stroker job. And I never experienced any leak or structural strength problems.

And now... Cutting the carter mouth.
The area painted in black is what must be removed to fit the new cylinder.

BEFORE

AFTER

And now...Matching the ports.
BEFORE

AFTER

I'm now ready to start assembling the motor !!!

Juan

 

[Spasta]

you're not gonna 'fine tune' your carter?
because it doesnt look smooth everywere...

(sorry for my english :x)

 

[Astrolopitec]

I still have to clean up a couple of edges once I split the carters again. But It's also the nature of digital fotography on shinny metal. The smallest micro scratch, looks like a big gauch. Any ways... Polishing for performance is over rated. Port and skirt matching is what really counts.
I took a look at your Slider project. Amazing machine ! Extreme attention to detail. WOW !

Juan

 

[Spasta]

I still have to clean up a couple of edges once I split the carters again. But It's also the nature of digital fotography on shinny metal. The smallest micro scratch, looks like a big gauch. Any ways... Polishing for performance is over rated. Port and skirt matching is what really counts.
I took a look at your Slider project. Amazing machine ! Extreme attention to detail. WOW !

Juan

I dont say polising is beter but i mean that there are some edges like you allready say

I'm verry curious how about the performance from your machine

about my slider: thx

 

[rydah]

very nice work. i still dont think that your stroker set up will make more power then a polini evo or malossi mhr. there are a couple of yamaha strokers out here that use that same cylinder as your but with a bigger crank, 45mm and 47mm cranks and they still dont touch the polini evo bikes. what pipe do you plan on using with your set up.

 

[Astrolopitec]

Another V8 pipe (Taiwan) same as shown above.

I agree. Those Evos are in did amazing !
My scooter is not a racer. But a long distance cruser. Like in cross continent.
Loaded with over 50 kg. of gear.
Now which motor do you think will last longer ?
An LC stroker snoring at 9,000 RPM or an Evo screaming at 14,000 ?

Juan

 

[rydah]

i have a 2000 zuma and i had plans on building a 103cc stroker, with a 53mm bore and a 47mm crank, but just getting a good pipe for that kit is too hard to find. yms makes a good looking 100-110cc pipe for those kits and koso makes a good pipe. the guys out here run the koso pipe. as for lasting longer i really cannot tell you which one is goin to last longer. out here we ride our bikes around the island on moped cruises 60 plus guys and the evos have never broken down yet. i just like the rush of that evo.

 

[Astrolopitec]

Must be a hell of a nice trip !
Yes. That would be an interesting pipe to try. Mine is the yms 70-100cc model (3KJ-10-W). On my old scoot. It gived me 9,800 rpms. If I get bored this summer. I might do like Mexicano but in riverse. Cut a few inches from the heather, see if I can increase the rpms.

Juan

 

[rydah]

my friend out here is getting into the mid 12's with his 100+cc yamaha stroker and he is using that koso pipe. he also has that kundo rotor kit so that also helps with the rpm's.

 

[Astrolopitec]

She is alive !!!
And running smothly. Looks like I got lucky with my first jetting try on the 30mm Oko. 155 high and 42 low. Naturaly I'll refine once I can put it on the road four months from now. But i'm getting excellent hidle and throttle responce as is.

This is my setup to channel the fumes outside of the basement with a bath room fan.

It was a very tight fit. I even had to cut a chunk from the top of the rad so it would'nt tuch the spark plug cap during big bounces.

Juan