New Polini Ignition/ Radiator for EVO2 SR

[Ndog1]

Long time all,

I have been determined to get my SR finished with proper cooling and aftermarket ignition the last few weeks with time off.

The stock SR radiator is 7.5 X 8 inches so I have selected a kart radiator that is 14 X 8 inches. I live in south florida so temps are always very hot. I want to be able to ride around for a hour or two without overheating. I think twice the cooling area with do it. I am fitting it up front where the stock radiator sits but at more of a slope to clear the lower steering. Everything looks good but my headlight. The stock headlight is very deep into the bodywork. Here is my question:

The aftermarket BGM "Demon Eyes" type lights look much slimmer than the stock OEM headlight (as in they are not as deep into the bodywork when mounted). Does anyone have experience with this?

Secondly, the ignition selection is a nightmare. Artek, MVT both have lighting but the new polini 171.0539 ignition looks great too. Once again it is not an inner rotor ignition but the picture looks like the flywheel is very small and thin, which would make up for it not being inner rotor. However, it quotes no output wattage like the old kit. Does the new Polini ignition even have lighting output?

Thanks for the help,

Ndog

 

[RiCkY70]

you can use a polini, mvt ignition which have lighting coils. or you could get a mhr, stage6 ignition which dosent have a lighting coil (better ignitions) and just charge the battrey after you use it.

if you are just running lights/ clocks then get your self two batterys and a trickle charger which has ends they stay attached to the battries. (two chargers)

then run a battrey into the wireing loom and a second battery into the first one with a switch in the middle to cut it off.

when using lights at night etc just run them off one battery and IF it runs out just flick the switch onto the backup battery. then once you get home just connect the trickle chargers and leave them on over night.

you wont have enough power to run under seat speakers, neons etc though.

but for a on road race bike it will work a treat.

2is what im running on my mhr kit" and goes though mot fine...

 

[Ndog1]

I have decided to get the brand new polini ignition. It has 4 different curves and is supposed to be awesome. The flywheel is outer rotor but very tiny and only 11mm thick with huge cutouts...so very light. The lighting system is much better due to the outer rotor having more surface area to generate lighting. The Polini dealer here in U.S says its much, much better than old system. I am also going to put a capacitor inline to keep voltage more consistent.

http://www.polini.com/en/page_317.html

As far as the radiator, I am getting the polini radiator off the XP 65 R. It is 8 X10 inches...which is the most I can fit in the SR cowling upfront. Stock SR was 7.5 X 8 inches so I am increasing surface area from 60 in^2 to 80 in^2. A 33% increase in surface area. I really wanted more like 50% but want to stay with a single radiator that fits well. To compensate, I am going to use lengths of aluminum piping in place of most of my radiator hose. This should keep me cooler as well. I can get 450-500 in^2 of surface area from the aluminum if needed.

How much of a temp drop would you guys expect from a 33% increase in radiator size?

Thanks and I will def keep you updated on the new ignition, the U.S importer said I will be one of the first to get it....sweet!

 

[tiba_karotsu]

if the 33% increase in size isn't sufficient enough to bring down the temps to optimal operating temps you can replace the hoses with copper tubes & add a couple of flow coolers to help.

 

[Ndog1]

Thanks Tiba,

I tore everything down today preparing for the new ignition system and electric water pump. I also pulled my motor off to lower the squish back down to .45-.5 mm now that I will have sufficient cooling and digital ignition curve.

I kept staring at the PWK 28...thinking about how sick I was of it....cocked all in the air....virtually untunable to my liking, the compromise of my suspension and stance it creates with the longer shock, the exposure to the elements and the LOUD resonance it creates (much more than the C21 note). I made a decision....its gone....im done with the rear facing setup. Im putting my nice stock subframe back on and dropping backdown to a streetable, tunable carb that will be inside the bodywork.

Im pretty sure I can still use the VL 14 reedcage with the plastic insert (with the smaller matching intake hole diameter).

I have all PWK needles, mains and pilots so I am thinking about an OKO 24.

What do you guys think....Dell 25....Mikuni 24 flat?

Im just so relieved to be done with the 45+ degree jetting madness.

Ndog1

 

[ipx]

i dynoed %100 stock scooter with stock and lightened magneto ( stock cdi) and also kitaco inner rotor to see the efect of flywheel weight

stock heavy rotor come on top , produced more rpm at starts plus less rpm drops after that = faster , maybe thats why pollini use a heay pully vario face

electric pumps = higher water temp then stock pump

as far as carb , any carb you can jet is fine , dels can be mounted at 45 degree , other carb leak ,del metering are not as presicion as japan but work well on a scooter because they prejetted for it so jetting is close , i had no luck with OKO on scooter ( i had only stock needle)

 

[Ndog1]

I scored a 21mm oko d-slide from a shop across the street for next to nothing...couldn't believe it.

The crappy part is that it has all the same dimensions as the PWK 28 and from what I remember it is a tight fit with the the standard manifold orientation....like the carb alone almost hits the frame. Plus I do not have a forward facing manifold that will fit the 34-35 mm diameter of the Oko's. I see the cheapo plated nipple ones all over ebay but am temted to throw this PHBG Dellorto 19mm on ( I have manifolds for it)...heck my remote choke cable even can be hooked back up. It looks so small and its roundslide so I will lose the snappiness but on the EVO 2 instructions it says to use a PHBG 19mm!!!!!!! I was surprised as everone here seems to have big ole 28mm on.

I talked with a guy who raced Polini Cup and he used 19mm.

What will a 19mm be like on my EVO2 setup? Should I go with it or try to cram that 21 oko (d-slide) up in there.

It feels weird...im finally getting a great new race ignition and here I am turning my carb back forward and downsizing bigtime

 

[oerski]

ive always had problems fitting the oko/keihin carbs on my dragster, ive always had to shave bits here and there. as for running the 19 with evo, id say run 21 phbg, with the phbg you can take your 19 to machine shop and have it bored out. like oko, all phbg bodies are cast the exact same, use the same, slides, neadles and jets so over boring is an option. (never seen anyone do it though, or atleast not talk about it. haha) my homie has a dell 22mm phvb/a carb it is a we bit larger at the manifold, but if you are using a rubber manifold it will stretch and allow you to mount it. he just put one of those big aluminum reedvalve manifolds on his vert mina, and now needs an oko, all i have are 24 and 28 oko's maybe you guys can trade.... hm...

 

[Ndog1]

Update

Ive been getting all my parts in almost one everyday. I went with one half of a new crf450R honda radiator that is polished aluminum and 2" thick. Took my subframe off put the stock one back on, got a Koso intake to hold my PWK in standard stance. I pulled off my cylinder and noticed that my cases could be matched a litttle better (especially the intake/boost port. Also looks like I need just the .20mm silver gasket to get the .50mm squish.

Looks like I will be the first in the United States to have the new Polini Ignition. It will be here mid week. I am going to stay with my manual waterpump for now. Wish I could put pictures up but this site says some "exceeding" message when I attach. I wanna show you guys my build.

Also, on ebay I have 3 Kiesler subframe kits, Wigs, MHR intakes......