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fitting bearings

muhuha

Well-Known Member
NEed some advice on fitting new big end bearings. Ive got some polini evolution bearings and on one of the on one side its got a c and two dots. The other bearing also on one side has a c and three dots. Do these mean anything? Also im going to put the bearings on the crank before hand, how far down the crank do they go? Has anyone got a picture?

Thanks
 
I install the bearings in the cases and then pull the crank into the bearing on the first case , then press the case over the other end of the crank.
 
Yeah , this is the best way imo. Instead of putting the bearings on the crankshaft , and then putting the 'shaft in the carters...
 
Do you oil/grease bearing, crankshaft and crankcase contact surfaces when assembling the engine?
 
No not really. When I start the first time , the gasoline and 2-stroke oil mixture ( 1:50 ) will grease them automaticly.

// edit : Plus , they are pre-oiled when they come out of the packageing.
 
I ment for example do you grease crankshaft and bearing inner ring before you put the bearing on the crankshaft. It will go easier if lubricated but there is probably greater chance that crankshaft will spin inside the bearing, I saw that happen few times.
 
Put the engine cases in the sun and the bearings and crankshaft in the deepfreeze.
The warmer cases will expand a thousanths or so and the bearings will shrink a thousanths or so.
Install 1 bearing at the time, get both cases done.
Let them warm up.
Mean while set up to install the crank into the big case first. After it is installed into the case use 3 bond number 4 sealant on the small case surface and don't forget the dowell pins. Press the little case over the other end of the crank until surface's meet. Have your case screws ready for installation. Put the screws in the case tightly.
Put crank nuts on each end of the crank to protect the threads.
If the crank is stiff to rotate you can center/seat/clearance it by precisely hitting on the end of the crank. I use a brass hammer. This will loosen the crank up within the cases and allow it to spin freely. The nuts protect the threads. You can use silicon lubricant while assembling this if you like. Not grease. Grease is to thick and can take up a thousanths of an inch. Motor oil is 1/2 thousanths.
 
Whats this 3bond number 4 sealant, i got the std gaskets? Arnt they any good, ive also got locite blue instant gasket. Unsure of grade etc shall look in morning.
 
The Zip for example dos'nt (I think) have a crankcase gasket available so you have to use a sealant. If you have a gasket then it might be easier to use less mess, there could possibly be a very slight advantage with regards to gas flow when using a instant gasket, as long as you don't over do it with the stuff.
 
use a hot air gun on the crankcases to get them really hot
dont put crank seals in until youve centralised the bearings and crank as drx said when perfect the crank will rotate back and forth like a pendulum you cant see this when seals are installed
 

I woulden't d that if I where you... Deepfreeze is ice , and ic is frozen water.. Water = rust on steel bearings if not done fast enough... Plus , the ice and water could get jammed between the ball of the bearing , and rust the ball AND bearing if still dont fast enonough.

Just keep with the heating the crankcases and leaving the bearings alone. While the crankcase cools down , while the bearing is fitted , it will get jammed between the rounding of the crankcase... No water , no grease , no nothing = no taking risks.
 
Why would yo even think of making the bearing smaller if you can easly slide the bearings in the holes when heated properly. :?

// edit : Cooling the steel of the bearings extremely isn;t good either. They'll lose strengh and become brittle ( broos , wich is Dutch word for brittle )...
 

You can find the proper way here:

Original user manual:

http://www.rcscooter.net/manuales_taller/yamaha_aerox.pdf


Page 82-83

Use rigid sealant (Loctite)

The manual doesn't talk about the axial play of the bearings after assembly, but it's important. So check it!!

Before you put the oil seals in place check the crankshaft, it's not easy to rotate it, you have to assembly the engine again!
 
The way i always do them is by placing the bearings in a airtight bag, and put in freezer for a bit to get them nice and cool, Heat the casings properly with a blow torch and they ususually simply drop in place, if not a slight tap with a rubber mallet and they will go in place. Remeber..NEVER hit the inner race....
 

Doesn't say what to do with the crankshaft and bearings... Heating , or cooling or anything. Because there are many ways !
 
Here's a bit that I wrote after hearing someone say that heating and cooling the crankcases was "Caveman style". I strongly disagree...

http://www.scooterinvasion.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=156

So that everyone doesn't have to view the link:


Hope that helps!

~Josh
 
Aloha, I think everyone can agree on:

1: use a rubber mallet and not a steel one
2: use heat gun and not a blow torch
3: when going into freezer put items into a plastic bag to keep moisture out
4: install seals after you center the crank and it is free turning
5: install bearings into case first
6: then install crank into bearings
7: use sealer sparingly
8: work quickly if you have 1/2 cold and 1/2 hot parts
9: pull the cases together evenly with the screws
10: leak test after you install the seals

frank