More power!!?

muhuha

Well-Known Member
Trying to achieve more power on my moped, using a ported standard minarelli 50cc barrel. Before i was getting 60mph on the clock, using my variator i got 67mph but gave me rubbish offline starting but i increased my squish and i can use the 67mph setup and have mint acceleration. Ive got a proper non blowing exhuast gasket, open air filter. Now needing more power do intake manifolds+reed cages (polini) make any difference over using standard with carbon reeds? And what else could i do?

The open air filter ive replaced from my air box, ive used a thicker foam so less air gets in this has allowed my to run same jetting and ive got a water proof cover and blocked the end of it so im still getting good back pressure if it makes any difference. (much quieter too)
 
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You've still got a standard ported cilyndre, I think you won't get much more power increasement, simple because the standard cylindre is just not really fast. Maybe you should consider buying a cheap 70 cc in order to get more power..
 
What are reeds and bigger manifold meant to achieve? Im running a 17.5mm carb so to fit a 21mm carb. Wont a ported standard cylinder run close enough as well as a malossi 50cc race kit?

Need more porting advice.. blended the exhaust port most of the way could of file scrapes on the exhuast port cylinder wall sideways and upwards. When i tired it the power was increased quite a bit, what does making the port wider do, i know you can go too far due to the piston ring poping out? as well and grinding up and down.

Got some reed vale questions too, the standard set have metal reeds with metal stoppers to limit the movement of the reeds but with carbon ones you see people are running single flap reeds on either side with no stoppers whats the difference if i were to run my metal ones like this.
 
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well that's what i have been trying to tell him long ago, buy an MHR Replica kit, bolt it on, set the squish & start tuning instead of buying another 50cc kit which could only add a few hp compared with a 70cc kit. the difference my friend is TORQUE, big engines have a lot of it & small engines don't.

carbonfiber reedvalves are lighter & stiffer compared to stock steel reeds, they operate extremely well at high rpms whereas the stock steel reeds will experience flutter way before you reach the revs that carbonfiber reeds normally experience.

if you take the reedstop off the stock steel reeds it will open too much & it'll flutter early, it can also stress the reeds too quickly & break off damaging the engine.
 
Could i remove the reed stops when using the stage6 c/f ones?

And for a 70's kit, i want a low revving setup but get get to 110kph.. i heard polini sport are low quality so will i have to be careful while running in? What about this kit, still cast iron and between polini sport-corsa... quality im not too sure iron is iron right? and its cheaper :D

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIG-BORE-Kit-...ryZ25640QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

they also told me after pestering with emails that their product were high quality and they had nothing to hide and if i didnt trust them simple dont buy it. They told me this crank was good enough to cope with their kit, my stock crank has done 25000km whats going to handle the power better stock or this one.
 
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looks like a cheap taiwan made kit, i recognize the piston & it's the one i'm using on my aerox at the moment, also the cilinder head is shaped like a full hemi chamber (no squish band), not very good for combustion, it will not make power.

dude spend the money & get a quality cilinder & crankshaft like an MHR Replica & RHQ crank, don't mess with the ports if you want a low revving setup, get a low revving pipe (Yasuni Z, R or City16) that should tame the MHR Replica even further, gear it up with 15/42 secondaries, use an MHR vario 2005 with yellow vario spring, regular Malossi kevlar belt, Malossi torque driver, buy rollers up to 5.5g, Malossi green clutchsprings (stock clutch), use 17.5mm carb with stock airbox, carbonfiber reeds (Polini 0.25mm) & you're set.
 
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ahh nuts, well not saying your wrong but the bloke told me his company makes them but they do look the same as cheap crap. How i wish i kept my malossi cast iron 70's now!!! i feel so stupid, is the polini sport ok (im a polini man)

Isit the same for the crank cheap rubbish? Ive made the man a offer of £30 if i do get it how can i tell if its rubbish and not to put it on?
 
we have a saying here, if it's (too) cheap then it's definitely rubbish in regards with tuning parts, my advice is build a quality setup & it will last you a very long time as long as you use high quality 2stroke oil.
 
looks like a cheap taiwan made kit, i recognize the piston & it's the one i'm using on my aerox at the moment, also the cilinder head is shaped like a full hemi chamber (no squish band), not very good for combustion, it will not make power.

What do you mean by hemi chamber and how cant it have a squish band? it looks identical to other sport/race cylinder heads?:L <] 9||6
 
Got a problem ported it put back on, put some carbon reeds in and since this its been running leaner than before? I had to turn my mixture screw in 1 1/2 turns and just tried top end and there now no power, im using a 82 main jet, onlty got a 95 sitting around and i'd run that before and it wasnt too bad? Why's it suddenly got leaner? Reeds too stiff?
 
Every part vital to the engines performance that you change/alter can alter your A/F ratio.
So it's always a good procedure to look over the carb jetting after something on the engine has been altered, like the cylinder or exhaust pipe...
 
also got a clutch theory, ive got really strong polini blue springs in there atm, they bite pretty hard but can you loose power by having them too hard?
 
Could i remove the reed stops when using the stage6 c/f ones?

And for a 70's kit, i want a low revving setup but get get to 110kph.. i heard polini sport are low quality so will i have to be careful while running in? What about this kit, still cast iron and between polini sport-corsa... quality im not too sure iron is iron right? and its cheaper :D

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIG-BORE-Kit-...ryZ25640QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

they also told me after pestering with emails that their product were high quality and they had nothing to hide and if i didnt trust them simple dont buy it. They told me this crank was good enough to cope with their kit, my stock crank has done 25000km whats going to handle the power better stock or this one.

About the polini sport being bad quality thats a big lie
I will be honest with you.. a polini cast iron block will work for a very long time with a properly jetter carb... but ont he other hand aluminum blocks... like the mhr, mhr rep and hebo manston... they have nikasil bores and they are very sensitive... personally i think malsossi is a big gimmikey company with short life span products...

Ive had a polini 70cc sport and gotten the bike to 120km/h and i use to blow the bike every wear and it never seized.... cast iron blocks slow down noticibly in performance b4 they seize so u will know when to back off the gas... but aluminum dosent give u much lee way for a second chance...
 
I just love reading where a person asks for advice from a person who really knows and then ignores it and then gives his opinion asks why and wonders why it does not work his way....
frank
 
I just love reading where a person asks for advice from a person who really knows and then ignores it and then gives his opinion asks why and wonders why it does not work his way....
frank


yer well not this caeh, considering i bought a 70's kit and race crank and the bike is pretty quick
 
also got a clutch theory, ive got really strong polini blue springs in there atm, they bite pretty hard but can you loose power by having them too hard?

If the springs are set to bite the bell at a rpm to high for the stock cylinder don't expect to go anywhere... If you get the polini sport 70cc kit then get springs that bight in the 8,000, 9,000 rpm range and you should be more then ok
 
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