2003 Vento Triton r4 stage6 70cc exhaust ?

slevin

Well-Known Member
hi guys, i know this is my first post. i just found the forum today...

i have a 03 vento triton with a 70cc pro race stage6 kit, stage6 exhaust, stage6 carbon fiber reeds, a keihin 20mm carb, stage6 filter, stage6 clutch with winged bell housing, kelli 12mm variator with 3g weights, polini kevlar belt, oil injection delete and 50:1 oil premix.

what do you think my setup should do ? rpm wise and speed ? i've just finished building it, but haven't ran it hard at all yet before i figure everything out.

when i installed my cylinder kit, i used the paper gasket supplied and the thickess aluminum gasket as well. on the head i used the o-ring and the aluminum gasket.... so my compression is probably really low. and my squish right now is 1.25mm. i was told i should have it down to .25-.28... which i will i be able to control with the other aluminum shims supplied in the kit. i was also told i should be running a compression from 125psi-150psi. I also bought some NGK BR9HS spark plugs, but im not sure what to gap to run on it....this spark plug also seems to be a bit shorter then the factory one...

my problem right now is my acceleration, i have the clutch springs tightened all the way down already (the white ones). but i havn't tried putting the red ones in yet. it feels like the clutch is engaging wayy to low and not in the powerband, hence the slow take off and peak 4-5k rpm speed i reach. i'm also running an ebay aftermarket cdi.
 
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hi guys, i know this is my first post. i just found the forum today...

i have a 03 vento triton with a 70cc pro race stage6 kit, stage6 exhaust, stage6 carbon fiber reeds, a keihin 20mm carb, stage6 filter, stage6 clutch with winged bell housing, kelli 12mm variator with 3g weights, polini kevlar belt, oil injection delete and 50:1 oil premix.

what do you think my setup should do ? rpm wise and speed ? i've just finished building it, but haven't ran it hard at all yet before i figure everything out.

when i installed my cylinder kit, i used the paper gasket supplied and the thickess aluminum gasket as well. on the head i used the o-ring and the aluminum gasket.... so my compression is probably really low. and my squish right now is 1.25mm. i was told i should have it down to .25-.28... which i will i be able to control with the other aluminum shims supplied in the kit. i was also told i should be running a compression from 125psi-150psi. I also bought some NGK BR9HS spark plugs, but im not sure what to gap to run on it....this spark plug also seems to be a bit shorter then the factory one...

my problem right now is my acceleration, i have the clutch springs tightened all the way down already (the white ones). but i havn't tried putting the red ones in yet. it feels like the clutch is engaging wayy to low and not in the powerband, hence the slow take off and peak 4-5k rpm speed i reach. i'm also running an ebay aftermarket cdi.

hard to tell as every setup is different even if you have got 2 scooters with the same tuning parts.

0,25 to 0,28mm squish is too small, i don't think your engine can handle it let alone 0,50mm. for an air cooled cylinder the min squish clearance i'd run is 0,80mm so you can use pump gasoline in your engine without detonating.

gap the plugs to 0,50mm to prevent it from misfiring especially with the stock ignition system, it doesn't matter if you have an aftermarket cdi.

also you might want to increase you premix ratio, 50:1 is too lean, you'll starve the piston, rings & bearings of lubricating oil, the leanest i would run my engines is at 32:1 but normally i give it 25:1. oil is cheaper than prematurely worn engine parts, don't believe in "less oil = more hp" crap, that myth has been busted, proven with a dyno to show less hp.
 
Im with tiba on that oil one
my experience in jetski racing and building engines tells me that the extra oil in two strokes helps seal them up and they make more power
 
hey thanks for the advice guys ! exactly what i was looking for. I'll keep you posted in whats going on.

the zuma engine is actually transplanted into a honda ruckus... haha. thanks again !
 
ok so i got the orange clutch springs for the stage6 clutch and it hooks up much better now. im running 3g weights and a 105 main jet, the original was a 100.

it pulls nice and hard off the line, but once it reaches those higher rpms it makes a popping sound and shudders.

i did a plug chop the other day and when i pulled it out, the plug was white on the tips, but after putting the 105 mainjet in today, this is what it looks like.

DSC03110.jpg


DSC03112.jpg
 
ok so i got the orange clutch springs for the stage6 clutch and it hooks up much better now. im running 3g weights and a 105 main jet, the original was a 100.

it pulls nice and hard off the line, but once it reaches those higher rpms it makes a popping sound and shudders.

i did a plug chop the other day and when i pulled it out, the plug was white on the tips, but after putting the 105 mainjet in today, this is what it looks like.

DSC03110.jpg


DSC03112.jpg

popping sound? shudders? could it be that you're still misfiring?

when i do a plug chop i don't look at the color of the ceramic insulator around the center electrode, you should look at the part where the metal shell of the plug meets with ceramic insulator, it should be a nice chocolate brown color for air cooled engines & a light brown color for liquid cooled engines.
 
i figured out the popping/shudder. it was the aftermarket cdi causing it.... i went back to the stock cdi and holy shit ! my scooter runs like a scalded cat ! i pulled the plug and the center electrode has a nice golden brown color to it.

ill check the ceramic insulator on my next plug chop, are there any other things i should be checking while running my engine? i can't afford sticking the piston on this badboy... lol

thanks again,
Scott
 
i figured out the popping/shudder. it was the aftermarket cdi causing it.... i went back to the stock cdi and holy shit ! my scooter runs like a scalded cat ! i pulled the plug and the center electrode has a nice golden brown color to it.

ill check the ceramic insulator on my next plug chop, are there any other things i should be checking while running my engine? i can't afford sticking the piston on this badboy... lol

thanks again,
Scott

then you got a faulty cdi, you must return it for a replacement or get you money back, i'm always skeptical of taiwan or china made cdi's.

just premix more oil in the gas & run a bigger main jet, that should keep the engine from self destructing.
 
hey tiba thanks for all the advice.

i got to go to a 1/8th mile drag race today and tune a little bit. i only got two passes.

but it seems like my scooter pulls nice hard off the line and gets up to 50mph very quickly, but after that it doesn't want to gain anymore speed.

is that due to the variator weights ?
 
Yes that could be. If you engine is doing RPM beyond it's powerrange than that could be the problem.

Solution; mount heavier weights.
 
yea i will try heavier weights tomorrow. i checked the variator face and it looks like the belt makes it all the way up the side of the face....but i didn't have a marker with me to truly test it.

why do you think my scooter doesn't want to pick back up and go while midrange powerband ?
 
hey tiba thanks for all the advice.

i got to go to a 1/8th mile drag race today and tune a little bit. i only got two passes.

but it seems like my scooter pulls nice hard off the line and gets up to 50mph very quickly, but after that it doesn't want to gain anymore speed.

is that due to the variator weights ?

that & you could be just running out of gear, you could try installing a taller gear by replacing the primary or secondary gear sets.

if the engine is revving high but the acceleration feels sluggish then it's just a case of too light rollers.
 
if i wanted to order a malossi over range kit for my 2003 vento triton, what model yamaha jog do i tell them i have in order to get the correct splined variator?
 
if i wanted to order a malossi over range kit for my 2003 vento triton, what model yamaha jog do i tell them i have in order to get the correct splined variator?

actually i have never seen a Vento Triton, what size wheels does it got? if it's anywhere in the 12" to 14" range then you have a Minarelli Long carter, if that's the case you must order the Overrange kit for the Yamaha Aerox, Beta Ark etc.

the vario that comes with the overrange kit will fit standard 13mm splined driveshafts.

an overrange kit will only work if you have a full race engine setup that turns up 13000+ rpm, for a midrace engine setup the overrange is useless & you're just well off with the standard torque driver change to keep the revs constant.
 
my triton has 12" wheels on it. but when i swapped it into my honda ruckus, i have a 10" front and 12" rear.

i believe the vento's spline is 16mm driveshaft... i tried to put a 2002+ zuma polini variator on it and it didn't fit. mine was much bigger.

is there anyway to tell what kind of 70cc kit i have ? its a stage6 kit... and it has one piston ring and aluminum cylinder and head. i also have a stage6 adjustable clutch and winged bellhousing.


actually i have never seen a Vento Triton, what size wheels does it got? if it's anywhere in the 12" to 14" range then you have a Minarelli Long carter, if that's the case you must order the Overrange kit for the Yamaha Aerox, Beta Ark etc.

the vario that comes with the overrange kit will fit standard 13mm splined driveshafts.

an overrange kit will only work if you have a full race engine setup that turns up 13000+ rpm, for a midrace engine setup the overrange is useless & you're just well off with the standard torque driver change to keep the revs constant.
 
oh one more thing, i just noticed today that i have black oil spots below where my exhaust meets up with the cylinder.... could it be that im running wayy to much oil ?

i left the original oil injection in and zip tied it open, and im running 50:1 premix in 91 octane gasoline....
 
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