possible belt slip

waxhead

Member
My aerox has a city 16
a ported motoforce cylinder
130 transfers
194 exhaust
v-force reeds
21mm delorto
programable ignition ( my own) www.waxracing.com

i am waiting for my delta clutch springs to turn up so i am running a stock clutch with lightened shoes and heavy springs

when the power hits the engine revs and then a split 2nd later it takes off

Its still quick but it seems to me that once it gets going it seems to acelerate faster
could this be a slipping belt or a slipping clutch
it comes on hard at about 9500-10000
and revs to about 11500

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
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I also have a yellow contra spring and am using 4.7 gram rollers
it blasts to 11000 and stays there until variator lock up and then will peak to about 11500

so i think thats about right

egts are at 1080 so i could squezze the tune harder if i wanted to
ie drop a jet size from 92 to 90

however if its slipping the belt then its not going to get better
 
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it could be a slipping belt or clutch but if thats the problem you would notice a rev peak and/or drop at WOT...

i had almost the same problem, my mina engine revved 10.000rpm till 40kmh+- while the powerband is at a lower rev(+-9300).
in the end it was just a shim in the front pulley that has to be removed, now it revs constantly from 0 to topspeed.
 
i have spent some time setting up the variator and it has the belt going right to the bottom

It doesnt flair it just revs to 11000 and holds it
however it seems to acelerate away qhile still quickly just not as quick as it does when it gets going
 
Maybe the color of the clutch bell would be a good clue.
Depends, I guess, on what you know would be normal or
too much discoloration for that setup.
 
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Its a brand new polini wing bell
its not showing overheating colours but dont know that it would just yet
however thats a good suggestion
 
with the timings & rpm you are running you should be using a malossi red torque spring to prevent major belt slip. also make sure your belt fits snugly at the front vario, hold the outer front pulley & try pushing the belt forward, if it slips then you are still using too thick washers, this is where different thickness washers help.

btw what clutch are you running? Delta or Speed clutch?
 
Thank you thats the sort of answer i was looking for
I am using a Mhr delta clutch
Just waiting on the right spring set to turn up
I was reading one of your other posts about setting it up
Im just after a traffic light demon and also a wtf was that machine for the cars
But i do want it to power stand
so i am thinking weights out as far as i can so this means when it grabs it will grap and lift the front wheel
Does this sound right do you

Will a torque driver make this thing hit harder from the lights

Also about my belt on the front pulley i am down to the thinest washer i have in there and its still not snug on the pulleys its close to it but i wouldnt call it snug
I will try my kevlar belt now because the red spring will hold more tension on it and maybe sit it further up on the back pulley

I was looking at the scooter attack website and looking at a dyno test they did on a mhr cylinder with simillar port timings as mine
on the dyno the pipe was making it main power about 11000 to about 11500 so i assume thats where mine will make its most power as well or there abouts
Its pulling 11000 at the moment and when the variator stops working ut overevs to 11500
does this sound right
i am dropping the timing out to try and make the pipe heat up at 11500

Thanks for your help
oh and i am working on making a programable ignition that goes on the stock stator so you get the benefit of the stock charging but the better curve
Maybe i will need to send you one in the phillipines to try on your bikes
 
Ok it slips when i try and push the belt forward so i am going to put my new kevlar belt on and hope that it stays up far enough in the rear pulley

Can you tell me is there an advantage to running the cnc stage6 outer pulley on the variator
 
Well i got sick of the belt slip , i went and got a red contra spring then did what every body would
I pulled it down and gave the cases a bit of a tickle
this way i can install my fully circle crank as well and maybe the inner rotor

i spent a bit more time shaping into the boost ports this time
the last cases i did i dont think flowed as much into the boost as they could have

i have it sitting there now with the jb weld going off and a quick sand blast tomorrow then back together
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