Engine Temperature
- Thread starter Eoin70
- Start date
pinkymingeo
Well-Known Member
I'm told it's better to go in the bottom of the radiator, out the top. Something about temp stratification. I had heat problems until I added a small automotive tranny cooler, hung from my belly pan, to the system. Temps dropped an average of 80deg F.
@ spasta
yes i do have a resevoir
my cooling system si the standard aerox cooling system except i have a Bosch electric water pump
at the moment im Pumping in series with the bottom of my rad and then into my Cylinder side then out of the cylinder head into the Radiator TOP
just arrived in work now and it was running up at 90 degrees again and its only about a 20km trip
yes i do have a resevoir
my cooling system si the standard aerox cooling system except i have a Bosch electric water pump
at the moment im Pumping in series with the bottom of my rad and then into my Cylinder side then out of the cylinder head into the Radiator TOP
just arrived in work now and it was running up at 90 degrees again and its only about a 20km trip
but the guy NEO's Ownage runs his evo which makes as many Rpm's as my cylinder and his rad keeps his cylinder cool
today it was a little better
when i drive below 10-000 rpm the engine stays cool
but i think the operating point of the engine shoudl be ok up to about 75-80 degrees. Does some one agree with me?
today it was a little better
when i drive below 10-000 rpm the engine stays cool
but i think the operating point of the engine shoudl be ok up to about 75-80 degrees. Does some one agree with me?
Jelle RV
Well-Known Member
15.000 is far too much rpm for this cillinder when its not tuned. When you make to much rpm, the motor can't handle the overrevs and gets too hot.
a single aerox rad is enough for a mhr team setup (not the speed) it is possible
and I don't know what kind of bougie you are using, that effects the temperature in the cillinder
a single aerox rad is enough for a mhr team setup (not the speed) it is possible
and I don't know what kind of bougie you are using, that effects the temperature in the cillinder
He probaply aint using a 8 or lower, and going from a 9 to a 10 wouldn't make much diffrence.
The squish would probaply have more influence, Eoin told me he didn't know how to set the squish right yet, so I think it's possible he has it too small, tho I doubt his piston hasn't got a hole in it yet then...
The squish would probaply have more influence, Eoin told me he didn't know how to set the squish right yet, so I think it's possible he has it too small, tho I doubt his piston hasn't got a hole in it yet then...
Jelle RV said:
The Rpm do not have any connection with his heat problem. An engine makes lot of heat when is making lots of power. If it is under or overrev it is not making power. If it is not making power then it is not making heat. Heat=Power
Any rad is enough for any setup. The problem is keeping the temperature low. When the difference of the temperatures increases, the ammount of heat disperded by the rad increases. So you may cool your setup, but not at 50-60°C.
And also I think Eoin you have not carburetted correctly.
ill make a picture of my plug later on
it is a perfect brown now i fixed the jetting from the previous head picture
when i do drive at low speeds it stays at about 60-65
but for it be going to 95 is abnormal
should the direction of my coolant flow have this sort of drastic effect?
it is a perfect brown now i fixed the jetting from the previous head picture
when i do drive at low speeds it stays at about 60-65
but for it be going to 95 is abnormal
should the direction of my coolant flow have this sort of drastic effect?
The color of the plug insulator tells absolutely nothing about the jetting. But it tells how the jetting affects the temperature of the plug. Install an NGK plug with an number "9", and you will see the color will change to light brown or white.
The direction of the coolant should not have an distinct effect on the temperature. Unless there is some problem, like some air mixing with the water. But you have to remove well the air.
As I told, the stock radiator is designed to cool an mild 50cc cylinder at temperatures around 90°C.
The direction of the coolant should not have an distinct effect on the temperature. Unless there is some problem, like some air mixing with the water. But you have to remove well the air.
As I told, the stock radiator is designed to cool an mild 50cc cylinder at temperatures around 90°C.
a better rad must be solution so!!
the jetting may account for small temperature changes
but in my case we are talking about being 25-35 degrees over the designed temperature
can a bigger ad really make my temperature drop by 20 degrees?
also can you suggest a good coolant to help regulate my temperature?
why a "9" plug?
i ahve one at home but why cant i use my 10 heat range plug?
the jetting may account for small temperature changes
but in my case we are talking about being 25-35 degrees over the designed temperature
can a bigger ad really make my temperature drop by 20 degrees?
also can you suggest a good coolant to help regulate my temperature?
why a "9" plug?
i ahve one at home but why cant i use my 10 heat range plug?
Remember this:
Jetting is above all important. The fuel that is evaporating in your combustion chamber, produces the greatest ammount of cooling in your engine!! Yes the fuel evaporation is the most important coolant, more than te water on in the cyl. Especially on a twostroke engine.
As I told, the stock radiator is designed to cool an mild 50cc cylinder at temperatures around 90°C. Am I repeating myself?
The lower you want your temperature, the bigger your radiator has to be.
The best coolant is water.
The plug thing was about how people do the jetting. As I said, the plug color tells very little about the jetting. Try this if you want to see it yourself:
Your "10" plug is perfect brown now.
Install an "9" and the plug will be whiter
Install an "11" and the plug will be black
Now, with the "9" you will think the jetting is to lean, with the "11" you will think your jetting is too rich. But the jetting in reality didn't change at all.
oh, btw.
You can run your mhr at 110°C with no problem, just install a smaller tollerance piston. Shure it will never match the performances of the cylinder running at 55°C.
Jetting is above all important. The fuel that is evaporating in your combustion chamber, produces the greatest ammount of cooling in your engine!! Yes the fuel evaporation is the most important coolant, more than te water on in the cyl. Especially on a twostroke engine.
As I told, the stock radiator is designed to cool an mild 50cc cylinder at temperatures around 90°C. Am I repeating myself?
The lower you want your temperature, the bigger your radiator has to be.
The best coolant is water.
The plug thing was about how people do the jetting. As I said, the plug color tells very little about the jetting. Try this if you want to see it yourself:
Your "10" plug is perfect brown now.
Install an "9" and the plug will be whiter
Install an "11" and the plug will be black
Now, with the "9" you will think the jetting is to lean, with the "11" you will think your jetting is too rich. But the jetting in reality didn't change at all.
oh, btw.
You can run your mhr at 110°C with no problem, just install a smaller tollerance piston. Shure it will never match the performances of the cylinder running at 55°C.
i understand you now
the plug is not the best indicator
illl try moving my main jet from 220 now to 230 and ill see if it helps
how can one ever adjust the jetting if we cant even use the plug colour as a rough guide
whats the best guide for jetting?
maybe i need a bigger power jet for my carb the jet which supplies more fuel at high rpm's.......
the plug is not the best indicator
illl try moving my main jet from 220 now to 230 and ill see if it helps
how can one ever adjust the jetting if we cant even use the plug colour as a rough guide
whats the best guide for jetting?
maybe i need a bigger power jet for my carb the jet which supplies more fuel at high rpm's.......
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