Reich electric water pumps

Cruz_e_Silva

Cruz_e_Silva

R^4
Hi!
I just found here in Portugal Reich electric water pumps for sale at a camping shop. These are the skyblue ones that most of you in holand and germany use to have on your photos.

Here nobody use them...so I wanted to know more about them before I buy one.

How much do they hold before they need changing (temperature and hours of use)?

They have only 0,5bar water pressure (by their catalogue) is this enought?

They have 9-10mm inlet and outlet. Normal radiator pipes are 13 to 15mm inside diameter. How do you plug them to the normal radiator pipes without leaks?

I'm thinking on using it toghether with the mechanical pump so it can accelarate further water in everyday use (trafic, trafic lights and low rpm situations). Does anyone tried this kind of double pumping? If yes what where the results?

Thank you
 
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If i were you id stick to your mechanical pump, it actually provides more flow rate than any electrical pump. Yes they dont give as much at idle, and they may take a little power off, but for teh time being i am staying with mechanical. Bosche pumps are suppost to be great! I am to research more on these pumps. You couldent use 2 together, the mechanical pump would push hard against the other electrical pump and ruin it, you COULD theoretically keep turning it on and off with a switch, but you would forever be turning it on !

Just my opinion..
 
BS

an reich works great only the problem is the fitting,put some smaller pipes over the inlet and outlet and than the original pipes. the run easy about 2 hours it depend of your battery.
 
why not get an NCY electric pump??

waterpumpdiameter9sa.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nuno:

In my experience from my old days with vintage racing cars (and I guess this applies to 2 stroke L.C. engines):

If the water flows too fast inside the water radiator, it doesn't "cool" enough, the hot water most remain enough time inside the radiator to cool down, if you make it flow too fast with a fast flow pump or double pump, it won't make a better cooling, using 2 pumps could aid only in those stand conditions (Heavy traffic or so) but not all the time, maybe Butch 182 idea of using a switch is good, low rpm's = electric pump working; from 3,000 rpm's = only mechanical pump working.

Do you know what I mean?

Regards,
 
Mexicano said:
Nuno:

In my experience from my old days with vintage racing cars (and I guess this applies to 2 stroke L.C. engines):

If the water flows too fast inside the water radiator, it doesn't "cool" enough, the hot water most remain enough time inside the radiator to cool down, if you make it flow too fast with a fast flow pump or double pump, it won't make a better cooling, using 2 pumps could aid only in those stand conditions (Heavy traffic or so) but not all the time, maybe Butch 182 idea of using a switch is good, low rpm's = electric pump working; from 3,000 rpm's = only mechanical pump working.

Do you know what I mean?

Regards,
Click to expand...

Hi Mexicano!
I know what you mean, and I know that higher flow doesn't mean higher cooling by the effect that you wrote above.
But those pumps don't have great flow like bosch does (0,5bar only) and my variable timing CDI has some degrees more that it should have at low rpm, providing more heat...and more kick of at start.
I don't have heating problemas but I whould want to reach the 60-65ºC mark on the cilinder head water temperature meter. My setup is full evo low tuned so you can have an idea of what I'm trying to cool down.
 
Mexicano said:
If the water flows too fast inside the water radiator, it doesn't "cool" enough, the hot water most remain enough time inside the radiator to cool down, if you make it flow too fast with a fast flow pump or double pump, it won't make a better cooling
Click to expand...

Graham Bell calls this theory an "old wives tale".

I've also got my doubts about this theory, but one thing I know for sure: If the temp. difference between the rad and the cylinderhead is already minimal, you don't get extra cooling by adding more pump flow. You do get more cooling by increasing the radiator area.
If the temp difference is quite high, then more coolant flow will work.

@Cruz_e_Silva:
Do you know the relationship between pressure and flow?
0,5 bar is quite high for a system with large passages like a cooling system. A coolant pump is designed for flow, not pressure.
A fuel pump is opposite: it will give high pressure but lower flow!
 
Mexicano said:
Nuno:

In my experience from my old days with vintage racing cars (and I guess this applies to 2 stroke L.C. engines):

If the water flows too fast inside the water radiator, it doesn't "cool" enough, the hot water most remain enough time inside the radiator to cool down, if you make it flow too fast with a fast flow pump or double pump, it won't make a better cooling, using 2 pumps could aid only in those stand conditions (Heavy traffic or so) but not all the time, maybe Butch 182 idea of using a switch is good, low rpm's = electric pump working; from 3,000 rpm's = only mechanical pump working.

Do you know what I mean?

Regards,
Click to expand...


You could THEORETICALY make a flow switch so when it reaches "x" amount of flow, the pump could automatically cut in

Oh and did yiou know if the volume of x amount of water is in a SEALED circuit, flow doesnt matter. We had this convo on pc modding forums a wile back when i was watercooling my computer system...
 
Joël said:
Graham Bell calls this theory an "old wives tale".

I've also got my doubts about this theory, but one thing I know for sure: If the temp. difference between the rad and the cylinderhead is already minimal, you don't get extra cooling by adding more pump flow. You do get more cooling by increasing the radiator area.
If the temp difference is quite high, then more coolant flow will work.

@Cruz_e_Silva:
Do you know the relationship between pressure and flow?
0,5 bar is quite high for a system with large passages like a cooling system. A coolant pump is designed for flow, not pressure.
A fuel pump is opposite: it will give high pressure but lower flow!
Click to expand...

Yes I know the diference (I had fluids dimamics at college)
This pump gives 0,5bar presure mainly because it has 10cm inlets I think. When I conect it to the original system presure will be reduced.
It's flow at 12V is 9l/min so it gives 9 passages thru my radiators in one minute (my circuit has 1L capacity). Bosch pumps have too much flow for a bike circuit so Mexicano aspects will appear (too much flow will give a rise in cilinder temperature).
One thing I have to consider is that I use pure radiator liquid and not a 50% ou 25% mix. Etileneglycol hasn't got the same heat exchange rate that water does (water has it bigger but it corodes water passages and radiator one too much even if it's bi-distiled). Next week I will start to try water-radiator fluid mixes to get the ideal one with as much radiator fluid in the mix I can.

@emo
You now know how? For sure? Maybe we do business again.
Have you got specs on that pump like flow and pressure?

@butch
I think you are a bit confused between flow and pressure...
 
Cruz_e_Silva said:
Yes I know the diference (I had fluids dimamics at college)
This pump gives 0,5bar presure mainly because it has 10cm inlets I think. When I conect it to the original system presure will be reduced.
It's flow at 12V is 9l/min so it gives 9 passages thru my radiators in one minute (my circuit has 1L capacity). Bosch pumps have too much flow for a bike circuit so Mexicano aspects will appear (too much flow will give a rise in cilinder temperature).
One thing I have to consider is that I use pure radiator liquid and not a 50% ou 25% mix. Etileneglycol hasn't got the same heat exchange rate that water does (water has it bigger but it corodes water passages and radiator one too much even if it's bi-distiled). Next week I will start to try water-radiator fluid mixes to get the ideal one with as much radiator fluid in the mix I can.

@emo
You now know how? For sure? Maybe we do business again.
Have you got specs on that pump like flow and pressure?

@butch
I think you are a bit confused between flow and pressure...
Click to expand...

If the pressure is at the right amount and the flow is say 10LPM in a closed circuit containing 1l of water, thats 10 liters per min as you know, 10 cycles per second.. Now if that has done 10 its picking up say 20kw of heat. If the SAME cycle does it twice as fast, then the flow rate is obviously doubled, but in theory this will not pick up more watts of heat, but will infact stay the same if only a given amount is dissipated at a given time....
Please correct me if i am wrong !
 
i ahve the bosch pump but i find the flow to be very weak

its flow rate is too consistent

the mechanical pump is much better cooling hands down
i have experience with both

the 10-14k rpm from mechanical system gives incredible cooling

only benefit of elec pump is its far more reliable than the mechanical system
 
Bosch is one of the best electrical pumps and very reliable. It gives 705L/h at 12V better than the Reich one.I don't think it's worse than the mechanical one in performance.
In 10-14k range they are both very good. But below 10k the mechanical pump doesn't cool down the engine.
Another problem is it's bearings and o-rings. At 14k the bearings brake very easily and the o-rings don't last long. If you don't watch your stator frequently you may get an aquarium...
 
yup thats the main benefit of the elec pump

the bearings in my mechanical pump fell apart so frequently
the bosch pump gives i think equiavlent to about 10k rpm cooling from mech system
you can observe the flow rate by removing the resevoir cap and watching the water blast up towards you
my friend his flow was so strong at 13k rpm+ that it would blow coolant out thru the pressure release in the resesvoir cap becuase of the the extreme flow rate
the bosch pump it also uses very little power
i think under 10 watts in practise
 
How much pressure exactly is there under load in the cooling system with the standard pump? Roughly..

Where can you get these bosche ones from also?
 

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