rear facing 28mm keihin

waxhead

Member
I have a rear facing carb and its on an angle of course, this is on my aerox
Its using a stage 6 intake as well as an angled reed spacer on it so the angle is less than most.
I cant get this thing to carburate at all its so inconsistent, am i the only one with this issue
Or do all rear facing carbs like this have issues
 
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Tommy.

*BA DUM TSS*
you should post some pictures of how the carb is standing exactly, because maybe he problem isn't the angle of te carb, but the setting.
 

waxhead

Member
Ok here is a picture
Its on less of an angle than normal due to my angled reed spacer in there
[Ir]http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc79/waxracing/004-19.jpg[/Ir]
 
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waxhead

Member
Hey tiba
Its just lean down low and i cant get rid of it
I run a massive jet and I was wondering if you guys were having issues with the float lvl on them with the carb on this angle
Ie not having the low speed jet full submerged
 

waxhead

Member
I have the complete needle set for this carb
As well as a complete jet box, they are a great carb but never set one up on an angle before and didnt know if people were using a different float height from std
 

tiba_karotsu

OVERREV TUNING
Hey tiba
Its just lean down low and i cant get rid of it
I run a massive jet and I was wondering if you guys were having issues with the float lvl on them with the carb on this angle
Ie not having the low speed jet full submerged

lean? really..................... even with the clip set to #5? the stock NAPE needle is actually rich (2.40mm) as opposed to the JJH needle we are using which is 2.43mm.

are you running a 48 pilot jet?
 

waxhead

Member
I am running a 50 low speed just in it
It has a lean bog when i crack the throttle on
Its got me a bit stuffed to be honest
 

tiba_karotsu

OVERREV TUNING
really? with the stock needle & it's still lean?

this afternoon i started the new MHR BB77 aerox engine i built for the last 6 months & my current carb settings are 48 PJ/NAPE needle/#1 groove (leanest)/160MJ.

before the needle is set at #3 groove which made it run a bit rich at low throttle openings so i set it to #1 which made it run a lot cleaner, the stock MJ was too lean (140) so i put on a 160MJ to make it run rich enough to burble when the engine is cold so that i know the MJ would be a couple of sizes too rich.

the pilot screw has 1.5 turns from fully closed which makes it idle smoothly, i think you could have an air leak somewhere.
 
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waxhead

Member
Yup thats what i am thinking
I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't from the carb first
I will pull the engine and shove it on the pressure tester
Thanks for that
I just closed the squish down .2mm to try and get the pipe to come on harder down low. Its helped the low end alot
 
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waxhead

Member
Ok found the problem
The hpi inner rotor had shat itself, Im so glad i dont have these things anymore
I have had the worst run with them ever. I have a italjet one on there now and scooter is ripping
 

waxhead

Member
I got it when i was there agent in australia so the price was right.
Yeah not going to get another thats for sure

It was randomly retarding the ignition and some times not
 

tiba_karotsu

OVERREV TUNING
go look at the Stage6 PVL ignition, they have 2 maps built in which is accessible by an external switch, the price is reasonable for a high end racing ignition. i have one here, it's from a customer whom i'm going to build a TCR 80cc road race aerox.
 
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