Polini Evo II cylinder Install

[BB Roxx]

My questions are these:

1. When considering squish measurement, my EVO II cylinder install guide says to set it at 0.45mm and 0.50mm, and I was reading here that 0.7mm would be better for street use with occasional racing. I was dialing it in precisely to the .45/.5 recommendation and now hear that it may be better to completely forget that and head towards .7mm if I want to ride mostly street. Is this true? Lastly on this, to obtain the right squish, I would have to use a series of base gaskets to get the right thickness, is this common to have several stacked up or just one thick one. (Newbie)

2. The Evo II looks like it is set up to leave out the thermostat since the mounting holes are left undrilled by Polini and frankly I don't think it would fit in the new cylinder anyway, so run without it?

3. My original Minarelli LC engine's stock cylinder has two small inlet/outlets next to the coolant hose attatch point on the head cover and the polini has only one. How do these hoses function and what are they doing? heat sensor? vaccum? I'm kind of a newbie on the different sensor/vaccum hoses.

4. The instructions then mention setting the timing and give three different ways to calibrate. What's the easiest way to set the timing? And which tool works the best? degree wheel? how to?

Thanks,

pretending to be a tuner while learning along the way.....LOL

 

[dixy]

0.8mm squish would be fine for road use regulary and a bit of racing now and again lol.

 

[Ndog1]

Hahaha...you are bringing back memories of myself struggling with the evo 2 on my SR aprilia a couple years ago...

1. You are right on with the squish...go more towards 0.7 and you will be fine for street. You can stack gaskets...i think you have to really. You are going to be running warm with the stock radiator so setting the squish to the upper end will help with heat.

2. No thermostat...you are gonna need all the cooling you can get...you shouldnt even hop on this thing until the your pipe is hot to the touch...warming up is key.

3. Your two holes are your temp gauge sender and your air bleed for the cooling system. Screw in your stock temp sender and go to the hardware store and get a bolt to fit the bleeder hole.

4. Im not sure what ignition you have...I assume you are asking about stock. You can drill the two mounting holes in your stator and make them longer....like slots. Just do it a little bit...like elongate the holes to slots about twice as wide as the original hole..this is about 2-3 degrees. The direction of elongation should be in the in the clockwise direction...meaning when you are done you will be able to turn the stator counterclockwise...bringing your pickup counterclockwise, making the ignition fire sooner or "advancing it".

I already walked down your road...anything you have questions on ask me...I will save you from headaches.

Ndog

 

[Raghza]

Thanks, you helped me out as well
Just one more question by me about the ignition timing modification.
For earlier ignition, I need to turn the stator to the left (counterclockwise), right? Was that what you were saying?

 

[Ndog1]

Yes....you are correct...bring the pickup counterclockwise. Be careful tho...just a bit...if you dont have a timing wheel just draw a circle the same diameter as your stator and you can use a protractor even to estimate timing. Take in mind this is just a slight bump advancement....just doublewide the hole.

 

[Raghza]

Thanks a lot
I thought I try by just a little bit and then increase the hole bit by bit. Rotating it just a very little should show some improvement as well, right?

 

[Ndog1]

Yeah...just a little bit...makes it a little snappier. Advancing does make your engine run hotter tho. When you do your plug chops..look at the ground strap on your plug..you can judge your timing by the transition line. Just google "reading plugs". It will give you insight on timing.

 

[BB Roxx]

You are right on with the squish...go more towards 0.7 and you will be fine for street. You can stack gaskets...i think you have to really.

Thanks 0.7 it is then. With the gaskets they give you, you do have to stack, like prolly all of them to get 0.7

2. No thermostat...you are gonna need all the cooling you can get...you shouldnt even hop on this thing until the your pipe is hot to the touch...warming up is key.

Good tip!

3. Your two holes are your temp gauge sender and your air bleed for the cooling system. Screw in your stock temp sender and go to the hardware store and get a bolt to fit the bleeder hole.

:?It looks like my Original jug had two holes together coming out o the head cover off the top and the other one off to one side on the face of it with a copper washer and a plug, that one with the copper washer is what the sensor hole. The other two are what? The bleeders.

4. Im not sure what ignition you have...I assume you are asking about stock. You can drill the two mounting holes in your stator and make them longer....like slots. Just do it a little bit...like elongate the holes to slots about twice as wide as the original hole..this is about 2-3 degrees. The direction of elongation should be in the in the clockwise direction...meaning when you are done you will be able to turn the stator counterclockwise...bringing your pickup counterclockwise, making the ignition fire sooner or "advancing it".
Ndog

Right-on, I get it. Thanks for this tip too.

Thanks for the help Ndog1, I'll definately call on you for more if you don't mind, going to re-set the squish now, then the timing, tomorow, then tranny.... Malossi Overange is waiting behind me on the bench patiently.

Thanks again.9||6

 

[BB Roxx]

Hey Ndog,

I got a dial indicator rigged up and I do have a degree wheel. I also elongated my stock holes in the stator like you said, how should I set up the degree wheel? In front of the stator or over on the transmission side and what are the correct steps to read it?

I read an article about the degree wheel use and the makeshift pointer and all that but, could you put it into a sequence of what are the next steps?