Aerox

Cathal

Well-Known Member
Hi. I can buy an aerox for €100. It's a junker but i got it running today. Just bought a new spark plug. Whats worng with is. The carb is not tuned. Petrol leaking out of da carb. And the crank shaft is in bits. All the varator plates do not slide onto the crank because the are worn/ wroung. I can get a new crank and varator shit for €40 second hand but there perfect. Do u think it's a good buy. I wana buy it and fix it up, then sell it. All the pannels are in bits buy i can spary them.

Is the crank shaft hard to replace ? Hard work is not a problem.

So what do ya think


Year 2000 with 1800 on the clock
 
Advertisement - register to remove this

it takes some time... but it isnt really difficult.
there are some good how-to's about rplacing your crank.

if the rest is in good condition it's worth buying it.
 
O sh1t i forgot. Another problem is the kill switch. U don;t need the key to start it or turn it off. All the key does it the electrics and booth. I think it's the kill switch any ideas how to fix this?
 
my mate has an aerox spare engine. It;s just the casing that holds the crank. The pisten and all is still connected. Looks like it's in pretty good nick. how do ya take the crank out.


And do u think it's the crank????

When u drive the bike the belt always snaps coz it's rubbling of the wroung varator plate.
The spinals on the crank are fu*ked anything i can do about this?
 
Worn out spinals or thread on the crank are always caused by bad variator installs, so double check it if you don't think you have it 100% right. If the nut loosens up or the variator itself is a bit loose (happens when you don't use enough washers) the thread/spinals are history and the crank is wasted.

You can remove a crank by taking apart the engine (doh!) but you need certain tools for doing it right. If you let some unskilled artists have a go at it you might end up with more damaged parts (igniton) than you began with and removing the bearings from the crank is also done best with a bearing-puller (?) which can usually be found in at your local car dealer.
 
ok good news. I seen my mates spare engine today. I think i'll just removem the engine thats in it now and replace it with the old on. The piston is still connected to the connecting rod and the rod is still connected to the crank. The engine is split. The place for the pump is gone and all the gears. I think i just take the gearing and other stuff out of the the fu*ked engine and put it in ''new'' one.

This will make the job much simpiler yea???
 
Originally posted by Aidix
Worn out spinals or thread on the crank are always caused by bad variator installs, so double check it if you don't think you have it 100% right. If the nut loosens up or the variator itself is a bit loose (happens when you don't use enough washers) the thread/spinals are history and the crank is wasted.



You said when you don't use enough washers. the crank get worn. Well on the aerox there is a washer missing behind the varator.
This is order.
Nut
washer
Thing for kick start
Kinda windmill thing that fits into front varator plate.
then varator
*Missing* washer behind varator plate
Then thing belt sits on and so on....


Do u thin k this is the problem????
 
There is only one correct way to install it and it depends on the model (standard/aftermarket)

vario-schema.jpg


This is a picture of a Malossi variator.

A standard restricted variator has additional washers, between 1 and 2 as well as a bigger ring sliding over 2 (this is the restrictor that has to be removed). The ring in front of 2 fits in the gap in the windmill. It should always be put behind the final washer before the nut or in front of 7. Don't completely remove it from the crank!!!! This is usually where the problems start.
A standard kit has 3 washers!

When you put all the stuff on the crank except the final washer before the nut you shouldn't be able to see any spinals (or hardly any, they shouldn't be sticking out).

Washer #7 on the picture is 2mm when you use a Malossi variator. Might be a little different for a standard model, but it's always pretty thick. THE final conclusive test is a very easy one: after fastening the nut it should be impossible to rattle the windmill on the crank.
 
Last edited:
On a standard Aerox you dont need washer #7. You only need washer #7 when you have mounted everything and you can feel that the what you call "windmill thing" (it's the front fixed halfpouly i guess, #1 on the picture) is still loose (or still can be rattled, like Aidix this said in his editted message :p). Then you've got to fill up the empty space.

You can do this by placing a washer behind the varator plate. But now it could be that your alignment is not correct. (considering you want to sell it, i dont fuck you give a fuck ;)) But if you give a fuck, you can also place this washer between the so called 'kickstart rondsel' and the half poully (#1), both on the picture posted by Aidix.

Further, you've made a good deal, i dont know what the value is of an aerox in your country, but in holland we can get a lot more than 100 euro :D, depending on the condition, it can be around 1000 euro.
 
new aerox cost around €2800 to 3000
second hand 1000 up words

Do u think i'll have to replace the crank.
Maby i could fit all the washers and shit.
 
ok the spare engine i have needs a bit of work. It's all rusty around the connecting rod. And i can't turn the crank with my hand coz it's too stiff. How will i loosen this up?
 
clutch fluid, 3 in one oil. 2 stroke oil. 4 st/ wd 40

will any of thease work?

The spare engine. The piston is a bit scorched but will do. All the gearing is takin out. So i'll have to take the gearing from the borken engine and put it in *new* one. Is the gearing hard to do?
 
No gearing is very easy. And uhm, WD40 wil work too. But a rusty crankshaft is not very reliable i guess.... :)
 
it's not too rusty. it just been out in the rain/cold for about 2 weeks, Only kinda a light layer.

The rev clock is also broken?

And the bike starts without a key why is this???
Do ya know how to fix this?
 
Well if it starts without a key you have to check the wires from your ignition. Somebody probably just cut out the contact and connected those wires. Because when you have no contact between those wires you can start your engine without a key.
 
Are you smart enough to fix it? :)



Here's the scheme, the igniton switch/lock is "5"

aerox.jpg


As you can see, to kill the ignition you need to connect BW to B (I assume it's blackwhite to black)
and disconnect R-Br.

So check the wires near the lock.
 
Back
Top